March 24 - 28th, 2010
NSIC Grounds, Okhla, New Delhi
Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week, a leading business event for the fashion industry, is back again with the Autumn/Winter 2010 collections. The event will unfold at the NSIC Grounds, Okhla, New Delhi from March 24 - 28, 2010. We at RVG Newsvision bring you daily coverage of the shows with detailed reviews specially written for us by fashion expert M.Mistry, Asha Baxi senior faculty NIFT and Neelima Mishra Agrawal of Newsvision.
Dark molten tones of grey, black, white, teal, aubergine
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Short salwar will be the new capri
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Return of saree elegance
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Smock tops replace kurti
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Ivory and black
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Discreet Minimalism
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Floral graphic patterns for prints
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Abstract graphic patterns for prints and surfaces
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Short and mini lenghts for dresses and skirts
Sanskar by Sonam Dubal
The designer acquired a degree from NIFT in 1990 and logged in with Rohit Khosla for a good eight years. This phase of his training saw him explore such worlds as theatre design, advertising and the global stage, eventually winning the‘Top 50 Achievers in Global Mainstream Media’ -2006, in the Fashion category at the University of Leicester Law School and the Elle Global Award -07. He attributes his sensibilities to his part Maharashtrian and part Tibetan/Sikkimese origins, which are reflected in his decade old, highly successful label ‘Sanskar.’
For over a decade Sonam Dubal has been presenting classic timeless collections which are his leitmotif; so it was very interesting to see what the designer had to offer for the coming season. Sonam did not disappoint at all as he moved away completely from his tried and tested path of laying a modern stress on tribal wear and moving into the western genre.
Calling the line “Routes to Roots” the collection was dedicated to the modern woman who jets around the world, with the jacket as her constant companion. Using beautiful velvet, denim, textured silk and interesting embroidery, Sonam added on for the first time geometric prints for canvas trousers and jackets.
Checks were given the right treatment and stripes added to velvet and raw silk coats finished with printed silk. Wool lined capes, silk Honju, a black velvet Ottoman jacket, a great aboriginal hand painted wrap dress with a back tie-up, blue silk crushed wrap, a dramatic burgundy lamp print velvet bolero and the triangle Africa patch cape had touches of the north east as well as Nepal and India which are favorites of Sonam.
The colours resolved around black, red, burgundy and cream with touches of glitter. Hand painting and block printing was inspire by desert lamp prints, paisley, checks and geometrics.
The hand painted silk kaftan, the animal print lined hooded coat, burgundy tiles patch coat and the purple velvet hooded kaftan were some more interesting creations. Mention has to be made of the beautiful bags which Sonam has created for the first time and highlighted the garments perfectly.
The mix and match nature of the collection proved that while Sonam has slightly diverted into western wear his distinct traditional sensibilities are still subtly visible in the clothes and most of his collections can intermingle with each other.
The sequined pants and sheath dress were the only two garments that should have been left out as they were too basic for a ramp presentation.
Once again Sonam Dubal proved that going on a creativity tangent is a challenge he can successfully accept.
With the heightened focus on our planet’s fragile ecology comes a palpable desire to return to more traditional values and re-establish harmony with nature. CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements’ innovations for Spring/Summer 2011 reflect this mood. On-trend, precision-cut crystals reinterpret the flowing forms of the Art Nouveau movement in myriad light-filled reflections and refractions; crystals in organic, textured shapes evoke insects, leaves and fired earth; and new colours mirror the lush beauty of vegetation.
Designer Editions: borrowed from nature, captured in crystal
Following the début of legendary designer Andrée Putman’s ‘Fantastic Flowers’ in February 2009, CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements is delighted to announce her completion of this collection with three beautiful new pieces. The Ginko, Zinnia and Lotus Pendants are delicate, crystalline interpretations of leaves found in nature, their organic shapes providing an aesthetic counterpoint to their graphic faceting. Innovative use of indents in the design of Zinnia and Lotus gives the illusion of a pattern of symmetrical ‘holes’, lending them a contemporary feel. As with all Designer Editions moving forwards, this collection now bears a distinctive stamp on its packaging.
Fusion Concepts: trend-driven style
Hot on the heels of last season’s Crystal Mosaics come Ceramics, a unique selection of loose Ceramics, Flat Backs, Beads and Pendants that draw on the natural beauty of fired earth. Available in a tonal range of Marbled Black, Marbled Blue, Marbled Ivory and Marbled Yellow, these latest innovations are the first to offer fully cut ceramics as a creative material. Completely opaque, their highly polished finish produces subtle reflections, while the textural craquelure effect creates individual, discreetly elegant pieces. Tough and scratch-resistant, they open up new functional design possibilities, such as key ring accessories and extra-narrow bead fixings.
A graduation degree in fashion designing from Mumbai’s Sophia Polytechic, training in London under Jasper Conran, her label ‘Kimono’ launched in Kolkata – Kiran Uttam Ghosh creations reflect her journey through the various landscapes. A blend of eastern traditions and international sensibilities, understated, realistic, well shaped silhouettes and innovative drapes; she is already a name to reckon with.
For Autumn Winter 2010 -11 Kiran Uttam Singh presented a 30 ensemble collection called ‘Chiconomics.’ Laying stress on affordability the costs ranged between Rs. 2000-8000, not clear if it was for individual pieces or the whole out-fit.
A sort of formal lounge wear style in burnished metallic shades of old gold, antique gold , olive, taupe, peacock, mocca, chocolate and black looked like an attempt to achieve understated glamour.
Dresses, pinafores, jackets, kaftans, angarkhas, salwar pants, trousers and churidars remained basic in varying lengths and widths. The Long and Layered silhouettes in tone on tone fabrics like net, jersey, chiffon, satin, Georgette were essentially soft and fluid and repetitive. Surface textures and embellishments like tonal prints, textured weaves, gota trims , sequins and foil prints peppered the overall look .
Her gold jersey sarees with foil print graphics looked rather interesting and pinafores made appearance after a long break.
Nonetheless show collections could do better with proper editing for a crisp presentation like any good cinema.
Poonam Bhagat launched her only-for-women label ‘Taika’ in 1991. Her brand has become synonymous with understated eco-chic. She prefers using natural fabrics instead of synthetic materials for her lines across traditional to formals, semi formals and casuals. Her label 'Taika' is retailed from various top boutiques in India.
The Autumn Winter 2010 collection from Poonam Bhagat was a visual treat for art lovers. Abstract Expressionism and Elvis Presley numbers rocked the audience into a nostalgic mode.
She combined stretch jersey knits with woven silk fabrics to achieve desirable effect and comfort . Classic western silhouettes were basic and clean like a canvass for elaborate graphic work displaying her artistic skills. Thread embroidery and fabric appliqués were strategically arranged in web, grid or link designs filled with vibrant colours and shapes with a painterly approach.
Asymmetric necklines, gentle cowl effects, halter necks and exaggerated collars added contemporary feel to the basic tops and tees in jersey while flares, curved hems and cocoon shapes added flat volume to skirts and bottoms in pure silk.
The wide and cheerful colour palette ranged from dense black to chocolate, coffee, eggplant, deep aqua, rose, burnt orange, brick, hot pink and ivory.
Limited range of silk, chanderi cotton silk, organza and jersey knit fabrics were used for the collection that was young, sporty and devoid of unnecessary clutter and fuss.
Here is a designer who knows her fabrics and uses it with skill to craft fabulous designs that she retails under her label ‘Maska’. Niki Mahhajan’s initiative in working with tribal artisans has resulted in her developing and entirely new fabric, ‘Reeds’ and thereafter winning her the Yuv Ratan award from the Ministry of Textiles. She works closely with artisans to promote their works and her exclusive garments are sold globally through up market outlets.
When a collection is strong with a clear story line there is no need for gimmicks and contrived themes. Niki Mahajan’s collection was an “Ode to Lata” a fictitious muse with love as the basis for women, whether they are sisters, mothers, friends or lovers.
Starting with an erotic audio visual which made no sense except to create excitement and maybe a bit of shock value, the show started with two models – one in high waist cropped trousers Tee and a shrug and the other in a long asymmetric layered dress both probably to emphasis the theme further of women in love.
But while love was the theme, the colour card was rather grim with black, grey and deep blue which mingled with touches of burgundy and aubergine. The fabrics were deftly treated with pigments from pomegranate, madder root, saffron, indigo, sunflower and even horse hoofs and iron nails for the large range of shipli, organza, matkas, cotton, chanderi, silk, velvet, tussar, some woven with multiple threads.
An assortment of interesting patches and prints were blended for long paneled skirts, smocks, Nehru coats, shifts, trapeze tops, smartly cut jackets, tapestry dress with hand brushed slub silk, quilted bodices and long coats.
There was a hint of glitter with sequins and the accompanying jewellery comprised bib necklaces, antique vintage baubles, wood beads, glassware and deep sea corals. At times there was a repetition of shapes like the smocks with pin tucks or pleats which could have been edited to make the show more tight and interesting instead of the 53 entries that at times appeared quite similar.
It was a very pretty feminine line which will sell well because of its basic shapes and interesting prints as well as good finish which did not need any explanations. Niki Mahajan is a designer of great experience and creativity and does not need to resort to drama to make an impression - her talents can speak a very loud language.
The label Abraham & Thakore was launched by David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore, both graduates of NID Ahemdabad. Subsequently, Kevin Nigli, a NIFT Delhi graduate, has also become a part of the label. Singapore born David Abraham is the creative director of the label. His first design collection was launched at Bergdorf Goodman in New York. Rakesh Thakore’s forte is design and development of sophisticated hand woven fabrics, which have been exhibited at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris. Kevin Nigli is the director of sales and is responsible for the menswear shirt collection.
It was a show everyone was eagerly waiting for since this designing duo has never shown on the ramp in India. David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore presented a simple elegant line that they are so renowned for under their label Abraham and Thakore.
Style and discreet embellishments created a great story in black and white for the duo for wool, cotton, shantung, silk, jamdani, georgette, velvet, khadi, and laminated fabrics. Patchwork and appliqués gave the garments a black over white and vice versa embellishment; and the motifs were quaint and rustic as they ranged from Hawaii chapels, hands, auto rickshaws, cycle rickshaws, marigolds, umbrellas, fish and spirals as well as the tree of life all used cleverly to enhance the beauty of the garments.
The silhouettes were comfortable silk pants, loose ikat kurtas, Zouave pants, short kurtas, pherans, coats some deconstructed kurtas and silk and velvet paneled coats, quilted silk trousers, crushed tissue kurta and silk ghagra. Scarves added an extra touch to the garments while the very stylish black/gold and white/black mojri platforms gave a perfect touch. The laptop bags were sleek in black leather with motifs.
The five saris varied in embellishments from appliqués to painted, and cotton khadi and silk ikat with striking red pallav worn with quilted fibre filled vest cholis or poly laminated kurta choli.
The very sharply edited show was a breezy presentation that left the audience wanting more who gave the designers a standing ovation.
They showed with much hesitation but now David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore can rest assured that what they have been exporting for years around the world is what the Indian buyers also love.
I studied fashion design at NIFT (New Delhi) for 2 years and was then awarded scholarship by Nottingham Trent University (Nottingham, U.K.) and The Charles Wallace Trust Fund (British Council, India) to complete my course as a degree at Nottingham Trent University. My final collection at NTU was selected for showing at the 'Graduate Fashion Week' in London along with the best design collections from all over U.K.
My label 'puja arya' which I launched in June 2000, focuses on hand block printed garments embellished with hand embroidery. The inspiration has been the idea to breathe fresh air into a dying traditional craft; to create an international silhouette by experimenting with traditional techniques of printing, dyeing, embroidery etc.
Puja Arya’s collection titled “City Girl” was dedicated to the woman who loves to travel and is from the big city jungle. The silhouettes chosen were from the 50s and 60s for an assortment of shapes that ranged from belted jackets, boleros, shimmering with sequins, miniskirts and dresses, some with belts and or short with puff skirts and a few saris.
Prints have been a specialty of Puja with hand block being her favourite; but this time it was graphic geometric and flower motifs that started with the black and white look for checks then went into yellow, grey, and lilac and onto aubergine and bright pink.
The fabrics were a mix of silk, satin, chiffon, crepe, chanderi and mulmul and the shimmering gota and sequined and patchwork flower motifs added to the look of the collection. The colourful box bags carried by the models were an inspiration of the wooden box bags by Enid Collins in the 1960s.
While Puja’s expertise lies in the art of block printing it was a little evident from the collection that fashion designing did not rate very high on her list; since dresses looked a little passé in their style and form and the embroidery at times did not quite make a great fashion statement.
The drop waist dresses did recreate the 60s era but the belted dresses inspired by the 50s left a lot to be desired. It was one checked pattern that moved into different colour ways from western wear to saris and the final long gown with the bustle effect around the hips would have been a dramatic offering without the giant padding and the oversized bow.
The prints and colours did make a pretty fabric swatch card but it was in the styling department that Puja Arya may have to make some adjustments, if she wants her fabrics to make the right impact.
