March 24 - 28th, 2010
NSIC Grounds, Okhla, New Delhi
The Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week, a leading business event for the fashion industry, is back again with the Autumn/Winter 2010 collections. The event will unfold at the NSIC Grounds, Okhla, New Delhi from March 24 - 28, 2010. We at RVG Newsvision bring you daily coverage of the shows with detailed reviews specially written for us by fashion expert M.Mistry, Asha Baxi senior faculty NIFT and Neelima Mishra Agrawal of Newsvision.
Art Deco patterns and creating fabrics with satin strips woven in and ending in knots
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Interlacing tape into fabrics and four leaf clover laser cutwork as well as laser fraying and fringing for garments
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Leather for appliqués, stockings, leggings, and trims
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Extreme construction with radial pleating for sleeves and dresses.
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Acrylic ornamentation as strips on dresses
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Dark sombre colours like black, charcoal, brown, ivory, with just hints of bright tones.
Vineet Bahl
Vineet Bahl graduated from the Nottingham Trent University, England with a BA in fashion design. He went on to train under Tarun Tahiliani before marking out on his own with his label ‘indijapink’. Based in Delhi, he is showcasing his styles on international runways. His influence from Tarun Tahiliani shows up in his tendency to dress up his women to look like goddesses.
Vineet Bahl never fails to impress with his crisply created collections and this time too the designer had a well thought out line which was edited to perfection with unstructured jackets, separates and dresses. Calling his collection “Aura” Vineet’s look matched the title as fluid comfortable shapes and layered garments made an impact.
The story line of the collection was very strong and definite. There were the two tone ikat prints on ecru for the opening line with circular patterns embodied for the mix and match option. Then gradually Vineet brought in stripes on wool and then moved to plaids for the geometric look with embroidery. The result was a mix of checks that came together as re-embroidered embellishment as well as print.
Finally there was a blend of stripes and checks that ended the collection. The colours were shades of brown, tomato red, slate blue, grey, yellow, green, ivory, crimson, mustard, gold and olive that played a colourful medley on gauze, modal jersey, wool, cotton wool, duchess satin, lurex, chiffon and silk.
The interesting pieces were the raglan sleeve military inspired jacket with a cotton tulle yoke on black and white print skirt; the modal jersey asymmetric shawl drape dress, the shawl collar drape jacket over a Peru shift and the lovely dim grey cotton wool shift with embroidery detailing.
The concept of re-embroidery on print gave a striking effect while Lurex added that touch of glitter in the right places. For the final five gold with silk chiffon dresses; there was very discreet but interesting chain mail detailing on yoke, sleeves, edges, side panels and belt.
When a collection has a definite direction then the show is a pleasure to watch and Vineet Bahl achieved just that with his very beautifully constructed but totally wearable creations.
CRYSTALLIZED™– Swarovski Elements TRENDS SPOTLIGHT THE LIFE-GIVING BEAUTY OF WATER
With people increasingly focused on Earth’s fragile ecology and traditional, nature-affirming values, the trend analysts at CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements have returned to the cradle of life – water – for their Spring/Summer 2011 theme. Crystal-clear water is not only one of our most precious resources, it is deeply significant to Swarovski itself. Life-enhancing, pristine, a brilliant reflector and refractor of light, this transparent liquid becomes a perfect metaphor for the life cycle of female nature and beauty.
Following on from an Autumn/Winter 2010/11 season that conjured creative expressions of buoyant optimism, the CRYSTALLIZED™ trend experts have identified authenticity, individuality, and a desire to re-establish harmony with nature as key trends moving forward. Water, as translucent and pure, nourishing and restorative as crystal itself, perfectly encapsulates our wish to return to the source of life, the very origin of being. It also reflects the respect Swarovski has shown for the environment ever since Daniel Swarovski I founded the company close to abundant mountain streams, in Wattens, more than a century ago. Water is a vital component in Swarovski’s success, generating hydro-electricity to create and polish to the highest levels of brilliance its world-famous crystals. Continuing the founder’s belief in the importance of reinvesting in nature, the company is proud today to actively support a range of water-related environmental projects around the world.
Light-filled, effervescent and forever in motion, water also symbolizes the circle of life through which female nature and beauty evolve – born at the source and moving through adolescence, to the final flowering into fulfillment and womanhood. Representing this creative, cyclical process, CRYSTALLIZED™– Swarovski Elements has named its five new trend themes SOURCE (Harmony), CASCADE (Romantic), SWAMP (Progressive), RIVER (Classic) and OCEAN (Glamour).
Amit Agrawal graduated in fashion design from NIFT Delhi and subsequently worked for Tarun Tahiliani. He was assistant designer at Seredin and Vasiliev for Paris spring/summer 2003. He was the India representative at the commonwealth fashion ceremony Manchester, UK in 2002 and represented NIFT Delhi at the International Talent Support competition ITS#THREE in 2003.
For his label Morphe Amit Aggarwal makes sure that the ramp impact leaves the audience dazed and dazzled wondering how the garments are constructed and what makes this designer tick in this very unconventional yet innovative manner.
Inspired by the diversity of words like converge, release, disperse, form, close, open, blend, explode, contrast, derive, unite, collide, construct, sustain as the theme; Amit presented a collection that was almost architectural in form with silk wool blends, ribbed silk, leather, mesh and tapes.
The colour story was so controlled that it remained true to brown, black and charcoal gray with just a hint of emerald, plum and mustard. Draped tunnel dresses had bits of mesh insets in strategic places. Fringes appeared on sleeves, skirts, and collars of jackets. Asymmetry in crepe had a two tone story in black and brown for a dress. Leather and silk came together for silk faille blouse, while a one sleeved printed and ribbed dress, a gross grain ribbed dress with leather stockings, and a stunning ribbed leather jacket and one leg draped trouser revealed Amit’s considerable command over construction.
Using fabric as strips Amit folded them into the silhouette of the dress; while fan shaped intricate leather strips on printed dresses were the centre of attraction. Radial pleats appeared on sleeves and draped tunics and sudden acrylic strips were an unusual embellishment on the garments.
The footwear matched the fringed look and the overall feel of the collection had a cyber fashion tone. For women who want to make strong fashion statements, Amit Aggarwal can be the one as his garments will keep not only the wearer guessing but the viewer totally bewildered on how everything was created.
The designer duo, Pankaj and Nidhi Ahuja have been weaving dreams, which are always infused with the essence of India. Pankaj headed Rohit Bal’s design department for a decade and Nidhi emerged from the portals of NIFT to work for various top notch design houses like Kenzo, Max-Mara, Armani, Roberto Cavalli etc. Their namesake label was launched in 2006 and though their collections retail from Carma, Ogaan, Elahe and such stores, they also run a stand alone outlet in the Garden of Five Senses.
When the fabrics are complex and specially woven for the collection; the silhouettes have to be discreet and simple and that is exactly what Pankaj and Nidhi did for their collection “Autumn Of The Samurai”. Inspired by the Japanese emblems and Art Deco patterns the collection had black, ivory, charcoal and gray as its base but brought in sap green, orchid and flame orange.
Keeping the 18th century samurai armour in mind the duo used a complicated weaving method for knit dresses and weave patterns. The satin tapes were interlaced though the fabrics and the hand knotting were done at the end to create an embellishment. The dresses stayed true to the shifts and sheaths styles, while the jackets were tailored and the poncho like swirling tops with faux leather appliqué and interlacing were superb creations.
Wool and jersey knits were given an amazing treatment by the pair. Opening with the orchid weave pattern dress with shoulder flaps, the show moved to a circular top with weaving and tape knot effect, a wool jersey convex weaving dress, a T shirt in viscose knits with wool jersey pants with suspended weaving details and then had an art deco faux leather appliqué jacket.
The play of satin tapes with knit and fabrics was unbelievable and the embroidery inspired by the ninja weapon was unusually. The four leaf clover textured dress, the ivory laser cut clover dress and the ivory multi textured jacket and pants completed the total look. A mention has to be made of the leggings and tights which matched the lean garment silhouettes of the collection.
For connoisseurs of fashion of the extreme kind, Pankaj and Nidhi’s collection for the coming season is just the right choice not only for its flawless designing but for the stunning fabric experiments.
Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna are buddies who design for their label Cue. They have made their mark in pręt western wear for men and women. They specialize in contemporary designs with great emphasis on silhouettes and detailing. Their collection for Spring/Summer 2009 carries the theme, 'An Ode to Joy'.
For their label Cue, Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna created another amazing collection called “Shadow Lines”. In keeping with the theme the designers had the models’ heads covered completed in shimmering black cloth which almost gave the impression of mannequins coming to life on the catwalk. The effect was obviously arresting since the attention was completely on the garments.
The colour palette moved in sync with the theme as charcoal gray with touches of gold, sage and turquoise created dark shadows with layering and draping. The sheer over metallic tale had gold, silver and gunmetal shades. The embroidery was tonal, but lavish as glittering slashes flashed across blouses and dresses.
Textured knits, satin, tulle and silk was splashed with metal sequins and the silhouettes were feminine with drapes for jackets, dresses and tops teaming up with fitted trousers. The finish and fall of every outfit was immaculate and there was total control over the designs with not a pleat or drape out of place.
The knit engineered drape dress with silver sleeves, the olive pleated knit dress with black particle embroidery only on sleeves, the overlap dress, the sage satin cowl top with beaded jacket, the inverted laser fray dress with tulle yoke, the laser frayed shift and the gold twisted cowl sequin dress were stunners. The tulle and gold sequin story for dresses, was the finale of the show as net created a shadowy almost magical feel for the garments.
When it comes to creating collections that have a perfect coordinated impact, then Rohit Gandhi and Rahall Khanna have always been experts.
The brothers Shantanu and Nikhil have successfully synergized their areas of expertise to create a brand synonymous with elegance and sophistication. Shantanu Mehra acquired a MBA degree from the University of Toledo, Ohio, USA while Nikhil Mehra joined the advance course at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles, California. His designing skills won him several prestigious awards and scholarships resulting in a invitation by the Beverly Hills store ‘Georgio’ to design a collection for them. He was the first Indian designer to show in Universal Studio, Hollywood. Shantanu identified the lacuna in the fashion world in India and the duo jointly launched their namesake label in 1999 with a men’s wear line that was high on sophistication and elegance. The women’s wear line followed in 2001 with a signature collection. Moving from strength to strength, in 2003 they created a classy pręt line in western wear. Their contemporary and silhouette centric designs have a global demand.
Another sartorial script for the discerning!
A collection of 29 period dresses rolled out against the backdrop of a woody Allen film. And guess what? Some like my neighbour ended up watching the film and the gorgeous Meryl Streep!! Another attempt to seduce the audience was pretentious and disappointing. Profusion of drapes in luxurious silks and sharp contrasting colours failed to revitalize the glamour intended.
The collection was essentially an assortment of formal evening dresses with peg skirts, balloon hems, ruffles, pleated frills, off shoulders, halters and draped volumes. Short and snug dresses with draped shoulder, exaggerated sleeve top, long sleeved jacket with frill detail were followed by long swelt gowns in luxurious satins and knit jersey. The fabrics were specifically cut on bias to achieve asymmetric cuts, drapes, volumes, flares and cowls. All made to measure styles for haute couture customers.
Tone on tone Swarosky jewels, lace appliqués, black cord embroidery etc. were some of the surface embellishments applied on the silky fabrics in solid black , blood red and broken white hues. Windowpane checks and uneven diagonal stripes added graphic appeal to the collection.
Payal Jain graduated with honors from the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, California in 1993. She founded her studio ‘Atelier Payal Jain’ and subsequently has made her mark as a designer of repute. Under her label, Payal has worked to promote the revival of rural handicrafts, her efforts taking her across rural Rajasthan, Orissa, Uttar Pradesh, Gujrat and Bihar and given a lifeline to many dying arts. Her label sells across US, Europe, UAE and countries in South East Asia.
Bells, smoke and distant jingles set the mood for a women’s wear collection inspired by the mystic allure of monastic life. The inspiration came across strong in what followed on the ramp.
A wide range of sheath dresses with straight seam lines and body hugging fits looked smart and comfortable for the urban chic. Fabrics like linen and cotton jersey, hand woven Khadi, self jacquard weaves and soft flowing silks were manipulated into elegant ensembles. The clean cuts were punctuated with discreet surface treatments like occasional prints, reverse construction and contrast over locking of seams. Floral appliqués and smattering of gold foil prints added punch to the monastic simplicity.
Clearly an autumn colour palette of burnt coral, warm chocolates, indigo and slate black made a strong style statement.
True to her reputation the designer packed in a variety of practical and comfortable silhouettes for working women’s wardrobe like structured jackets, straight and flowy tunics, raised necks, draped dresses, bais skirts and prayer pants. Although after a while the silhouettes and cuts became predictable and repetitive.
The garments were clean finished without bits of thread hanging to our relief.
