Spring/Summer 2011
October 23-27, 2010
Hall No18, ITPO, Pragati Maidan, New Delhi
Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week, a leading business event for the fashion industry, is back again with the Spring/Summer 2011 collections. The event is being held at the Pragati Maidan in New Delhi and will unfold from October 23-27, 2010. We at RVG Newsvision bring you daily coverage of selected shows with detailed reviews specially written for us by fashion expert M.Mistry, Asha Baxi senior faculty NIFT and Neelima Mishra Agrawal of Newsvision.
Using steel, ring spun cotton, silk and high twist cotton with jacquard design for hand woven engineered fabrics created for each garment.
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Mix of hand and digital block prints in different patterns and colours for summer
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Return of the kaftan in mini and maxi forms
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Mix of woven multi pattern fabrics in pastel neutral colours.
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Long and short flowy silhouettes, generous flares synched at the waist.
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Short puff sleeves
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Tiered and flared volumes in frills ruffles and cravat
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Light weight voiles, flat chiffons, muls, silks
Prashant Verma
Designer Prashant Verma graduated from NIFT, Delhi in 2005 with a Diploma in Fashion Design and a graduate collection that was sponsored by Manish Arora, Puja Nayyar, Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna, Varun Bahl, Ashish & Smita Soni, and Tarun Tahiliani. He started his training in Fashion Design at the age of 18, in London, at the Fashion House of Alexander McQueen. Across 2005 and 2006, Prashant worked at the design studio of Manish Arora for the London Fashion Week SS 2005 and AW 2006/07 collections; for Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna and as a stylist for the WIFW Grand Finale AW 2006 / 07 Runway Presentation.
Creativity - 8
Commercial Viability - 8
Trendsetting - 7
Is a customer ever interested in the history behind a collection or does the lady just want to know if the garment will make her look slim, trim and beautiful and it suits her. Most women will want the latter and are probably only interested in the price tag when push comes to shove.
But designer Prashant Verma put the audience through a lesson on the Bhagavad Gita (even gave copies of the holy book to the front rows!) with pages of explanations about the universe, the world, life, death, disease and opened his show with a tormented black and white film of himself drenched in 'red' blood against a mountain range. Minus the theatrics and the lengthy explanation, the collection of 12 garments (Prashant hoped to get his message across in a few creations which is great) were very interesting and visually dramatic on the ramp and will sell well minus maybe the skull prints, which only the very strong at heart will wish to wear.
Calling the collection 'The Bhagavad', Prashant named each garment to enforce his inspiration further. The prints were described as ‘ice crashing’ and ‘bursting into stars’, clouds parting across lotus ponds lined with skulls, a peacock's feather breaking into a storm of sardines across the shipwreck on a seabed of snakes as well as various organs infected byTumour, which were in shades of rust, orange, brown, red, blue and black.
Fabrics were thick duchess satin and chiffon depicting the ice and the cosmic. Opening the show with Bhishma- a black blue draped asymmetric robe with accentuated shoulders, there was Alexander- a black blue asymmetric short robe with skulls on the back, Samsaara a long lean galaxy print draped flowing gown in black and blue, Krishna a brown printed cowled gown,
Awakening a skull printed low back halter, Avalanche a long tube with matching sleeves long coat and Shamshaan a bat-wing sleeve loose blouse with flowing brown shaded skirt.
There was a garment named Tumour in brown and orange sheer georgette for a kaftan. The final all white Atlantis creation with padded shoulders was a pristine gown with the stone puckering effect Prashant is famous for on the long flowing cape. The show ended with the Outro (opposite of Intro) once again with a black and white film this time with two bodies drenched in blood and looking quite agonized.
The garments will sell Prashant, since they are very striking and well designed, but if the customer reads your philosophy maybe they may get a little depressed. So like the length of your collection keep the explanation to just three words - by Prashant Verma.
SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS: TRENDS DRAW ON ANIMAL INSTINCTS
For their Autumn/Winter 2011/12 predictions, the trend experts at SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS turn to the animal kingdom for inspiration. Rekindling their love affair with what is real and tangible; a sense of survival and community is the overriding influence for designers this season. In a world driven by the urge to reconnect – both with each other and with nature - we return to our animal instincts for guidance and instruction.
The coming season heralds an era of contrast. On the one hand is a return to the rural and an ever increasing focus on the power of nature. Design is infused with animal magnetism – fake furs, leathers and hides take centre stage, embellished with scatterings of sparkling crystal. On the other hand, our desire to embrace the future and tap into our reinvented strength is marked by a positive, uplifting and forward-looking Design mood. Fun and frivolity reign, with glittering explosions of coloured crystal and authoritative tone-on-tone 3D applications.
Arjun Saluja graduated from Philadelphia College of Textile and Science with a degree in fashion design and merchandising. He returned to India to launch his Label Rishta. He returned to New York in 1999, and his creations have subsequently been selling is stores like Henri Bendel, Anthropologie, Barnets Japan and various high-end boutiques like Tootsies. He launched his label ‘rishta’ in 2005. Rishta's occasional combinations of Indian, Japanese and Western, and traditional and contemporary references is inherent to its ethos.
Creativity - 6
Commercial Viability - 6
Trendsetting - 6
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The paradox of 'Fakir Couture' clearly shone through the contractions palpable in the experimental line of clothing showcased by Arjun for Spring Summer 2011.
Voluminous and multiple layers with Japanese orientation and structural drama of space suit detailing earmarked the look.
While jumpsuits with thick cartridge piping, spooky flaps and circular pockets were gimmicky, the samurai pants with zippers and 3D pockets, and short half sleeved jackets with 3D collars, yokes and 3D pockets were truly smart and sophisticated.
It was interesting to find voluminous lehenga and salwar trousers placed in the same collection without much fuss. Also denim coats, bottoms and half jackets could be seen in a new lighter structure.
Dresses have been really strong for summer this season and Arjun, for obvious reasons, didn't miss out on the trend. However his dresses with asymmetric cuts, pleats, pin tucks and origami folds in mixed fabrics were alluring.
Tough cottons and linens gave way to softer chiffons and satin. The colour palette ranged from shades of grey, yellow, blues and broken whites and prints were primarily graphic.
A dramatic presentation for urban vagabonds!
Sanchita Ajjampur could be classified as an Indian origin European designer. Raised in Austria, graduated in fashion from the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne, a Master’s Degree in Fashion and Technology from Domus Academy in Milan, worked with brands like Romeo Gigli, Callaghan, Moschino, Aspesi and Blumarine, she has strived to connect with her roots and has travelled extensively across India to study its ancient arts and crafts and spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing techniques. She launched her label ‘Sanchita’ in 2004 and shuttles between India and Italy.
Creativity - 7
Commercial Viability - 9
Trendsetting - 7
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The swelling tribe of fast paced modern nomads inspired Sanchita to create simple wardrobe solutions for their complex lifestyles. Thus came about a delightful collage of eclectic symbols skillfully fusing fashion and art. Her silhouettes were simple basic and modern vitalized by clever craftsmanship and crisp styling.
Playful swimwear in a striking folkloric palette rolled out to the thumping beats of tribal music. Relaxed loungewear in myriads of prints, colours and embroideries fashioned into an eloquent narrative ranged from comfy jumpsuits, play suits, warm up pants with cuffed track bottoms, sarrouel pants, structured skirts and wrap skirts. The re-mixed digital-geometric and Afro-cultural prints were interesting contrasts of avant-garde and folk, with a cosmopolitan feel.
The tie-dye leather pants matched with bags and shoes presented a coordinated chic option for the style conscious nomads.
The surface embellishments made for interesting textural formations. Chatai texture for bags and shoes, cut dana bead jali for short tops, funky embroideries on accessories and interesting folk art motifs in random placements.
The fabrics were soft sensuous and fluid like chiffons, satins, raw cottons, jersey, khadi paper silk and tulle.
The warm colour palette was inspired by the great eastern spice market.
Overall a Feisty collection with fast paced walk and enchanting music enthralled the audience.
One of the brightest sparks emerging from NIFT a decade back, Ashish Soni has made his mark on the Indian and global ramps. He launched his namesake label in 1991 and his design studio ‘Ikos’ in 1993. The designer has participated in fashion events in places like Oman, Thailand, Hongkong, Singapore, Tokyo, London, New York and Paris. Besides his flagship and select stores across India, he also retails successfully in Dubai though Fasateen. Extreme simplicity, flawless lines, immaculate cuts and a perfect finish define an Ashish Soni creation.
Creativity - 8
Commercial Viability - 9
Trendsetting - 8
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It was a crisp well designed and stylish collection that ashish soni presented for the coming season. Playing with a black and white story only, although his ramp and back drop were polka dotted, ashish allowed the monochrome sections to let his detailing and creativity speak a fashion language. With just two men's wear entries – a white tuxedo and a black waistcoat and trousers with a white shirt; the rest of the show was devoted to very wearable prêt wear for the female customer.
Each of the 44 entries had an innovative detailing touch that gave the garments a stylish appeal. Ashish started with the all white section of 11 garments, where oversized shirt dresses in cotton poplin with extended sleeve detail, a 3d panel voile jacket with knee length flared cotton skirt, the shift dress with blouson textured yoke, the cotton shirt dress with multi placket detail, the oversized shirt dress with details on sleeves and the white satin embroidered shirts with knee length flared cotton skirt were eye catching. For the black and white range it was a mix of the two colours with black playing second fiddle to white in the form of yokes for t shirt dress with origami sleeves or a black apron over a white skirt, and at other times a splash of 3d black flowers on a tee and at other times as felt appliqués on oversized sleeve t-shirt with a tree print cotton voile shirt and black cotton asymmetric pleated trouser.
In the all-black section, ashish gave the little black dress prime position and showed a collection of 16, which will appeal to nearly every woman. There were cotton voile flared dresses with leather applique on yokes, draped shifts with tie-up detail at waist, pleated flared dress with maple leaf applique, permanent pleated tulle shift, draped satin tunic with embroidered detail, bomber jacket with permanent pleated lace, bubble hem knee length dress, black fitted cocktail dress with embroidered ruffles on front and shoulder and a layered tuxedo dress with georgette applique flowers.
It was a perfect summer offering from ashish soni which will surely fly off the shelves next year.
Tanvi Kedia graduated from NIFT Delhi in 2004. Post which she worked with designer Tarun Tahiliani for two years. In the August of 2007 she launched her namesake label TANVI KEDIA. A talented designer, she has made craft and texture her forte and experiments with Indian embroideries and vintage textiles. She has also been designing costumes for films.
Creativity - 7
Commercial Viability - 9
Trendsetting - 8
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The Spring/Summer 2011 season will be a colourful one from the studios of Tanvi Kedia with her 'Pixelated' collection which will be ideal for the resort and holiday wear look. Patterns were a pleasant mix of the ethnic and traditional motifs with colours that were a kaleidoscope of hues. The silhouettes were free and easy with tunics, voluminous kaftans and tiny dresses with minute detailing. Geometrics played an important part as the prints in bright acid tones on silk were at times bold and then a bit subtle. The dozen garments presented were highlighted with either the block or digital prints with detailing like pleating, embroidery and panels to give a folksy peasant look.
Opening the show with a a block printed embroidered kaftan in blue and orange silk with a jewelled belt, the look moved to a peasant dress with high waist then on to a sleeveless tunic with an embellished scarf. The tiered hem of the blue and pink tunic had a fluid style, while the kimono sleeved mustard dress with an embroidered placket and the asymmetric hem dress with multi print added to the look of the collection. Tiered dress with embellished cuffs and collar, a kaftan dress with red sleeve interest and jewel belt, a lean maxi, a resort creation in double layered panels with embellished buttons, a pleated geometric hem tunic and another with a sequined belt in shaded and pleated styles were part of the look that will appeal to women who want to party after a day at the beach or just laze around at home on a hot humid day.
Tanvi Kedia has created a niche for her creativity by mixing and matching prints, colours and cute ethnic styles with a touch of western sensibilities to present an interesting and appealing assortment of clothes with a fine designing touch.
The designers behind the label Dev r Nil are Debarghay Bairagi and Navonil, both from Bengal. Debarghya Bairagi 'the dreamer' of the two is a Commerce graduate from St Xavier's (Kolkata) and a graduate of NIFT, Kolkata. He was the 'Style File Young Masters' finalist in 2004. Navonil studied fashion from Canberra Institute of Technology (Australia) and interned under Akira Isogawa, which helped him understand the importance of Art in Fashion. Their label had won the Elle Magazine 'Style Awards 2006’.
Creativity - 6
Commercial Viability - 8
Trendsetting - 6
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Better known for 'easy chic' wardrobe, Dev and Nil conjured up a sepia toned Pop art canvas for their Spring Summer 2011 collection. Visual representation of their hero Che Guevara, a social crusader from South America was too literal and claustrophobic. The pop art style prints of their icon's portrait on silk saris and jackets displayed their comfort with the trodden past.
Barring the 'faces', they showed some beautiful hand crafted developments on organic materials in their ready to wear collection for men and women.
The delicate batik crack stretch denim jackets and trousers, batik Jaffri printed tops with pleated detailing, pink/indigo bike organza shirt dresses, textured cotton flared trousers and embroidered circular dress coordinates romanced with casual earthy chic.
Wrap tops and Chinese silk shirt dresses accessorized with leather trims and gladiator sandals conjured powerful imagery.
Layered chiffon ensembles cruised with a summery feel.
All the silhouettes were loose and easy to wear with details more functional than decorative, great for rugged travelling like deep pockets, flaps and epaulets.
Natural fabrics like mulmul, organza, denim, silk with hand block printing, indigo dyeing, batik and tie-dye confirmed serious shift towards indigenous craft techniques and materials.
For the predominantly textured look they created graphic pop art prints with Che Guevara's portrait and bicycle motif, beehive jal prints, jaffri prints and batik cracks.
Discreet embroideries occasionally peppered the surfaces.