FDCI has launched its new fashion initiative, the Pearls Infrastructure Delhi Couture Week, which is being held at The Grand hotel in Vasant Kunj, New Delhi, from 20th – 25th July, 2010. RVG Newsvision brings you daily coverage of all the thirteen shows with detailed reviews specially written for us by Asha Baxi senior faculty NIFT.
Varun Bahl is a designer whose sense of style was well developed even when he was knee high. The degree from the National Institute of Fashion Technology in Delhi was a mere formality for this very talented designer. Varun Bahl is known for his expertise and flair for western clothes. But this has not come in the way of the designer successfully adapting his preferences for surface ornamentation, simple and clean silhouettes and a fusion of techniques into his Indian saris and lehengas. He also successfully uses block printing, appliqué and embroidery on an outfit that is crafted from fabrics with different textures.
Varun Bahl’s collection ‘Anastasia Found’ was a rich tribute to the mystic of Imperial Russia. Russian flamboyance was coordinated with Indian saris and lehangas in an exotic concoction of the two diverse cultures.
Silhouettes drawn from Russian royal costumes were interpreted for Indian market without disrupting the original inspiration. Potrait collars, curved hems, bold embroideries were some of the oft repeating details on blouses, bustiers and jackets in the collection. The way he combined antique royal silhouettes like capes , collars and long jackets with Indian saris, lehangas and churidar kamezz looked very rich and elaborate but costumy.
The embroideries were exquisitely hand crafted in silver zardozi and coloured threads. Royal and military insignias and badges inspired the mood and motifs for the embroideries which looked very nice and different from the ubiquitous paisleys and floral patterns.
Rich warm colours further enhanced the celebratory mood of the collection.
The show stopper Tinu Varghese walked in holding a replica of Faberge egg as rose petals showers filled the air with spring garden fragrance.
The show was attended by many celebrities who cheered the beautiful creations of the designer.
In keeping with the founding Swarovski principle to “constantly improve on what is good”, the company’s crystal components brand will be optimized. From June 2010, CRYSTALLIZED™– Swarovski Elements becomes SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS, placing much more emphasis on the core Swarovski brand. For the same reasons, STRASS® Swarovski® Crystal will also be brought under the same single SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS brand. The move further consolidates Swarovski’s position as a world-class partner across the full design spectrum, from lighting and architecture to fashion and jewellery. This move will deliver maximum benefits to Swarovski’s valued business partners and customers, who will profit from the power generated by a synergised and highly effective premium brand. Customers will be able to take advantage of the global presence generated by all Swarovski’s initiatives, events, retail activities and concept stores in major cities around the world. In addition, a strong link to the Swarovski brand opens up the potential of new market opportunities across many different segments.
Suneet Varma graduated from the London School of Fashion in 1986, at a time when the Indian fashion industry was near nonexistent. He trained under world class couturiers like Nicole Farhi in London and Yves Saint Laurent, Paris. He heads his company, ‘Suneet Varma Design Pvt Ltd’ and is one of the founding members of FDCI. He has two exclusive stores in Delhi and one in Mumbai along with retailing through ten multi designer stores across Mumbai, Dubai, Chennai, Bangalore and Chandigarh as well as London, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Singapore and the USA.
A stunning presentation closed the penultimate day of the Delhi Couture Week
2010. Suneet Verma made the Magical world of fantasy came alive in his dramatic
presentation inspired by the powerful imagery from the “Tales of a thousand and
one nights”.
Deeply impressed by the works of Antonio Lopez, one of the best Fashion
illustrators of his times, Suneet gave a befitting tribute to the artist.
It was a delight to see vibrant colours and the traditional Indian crafts used
so well in contemporary fashion.
The show was divided into three acts driven by strong colour palette.
The opening scene in draped overcoats, bubble dresses and sequin sheeted saris,
with beautiful corsets was followed by long length dresses with whimsical
boleros, satin tunics with lace borders and hand embroidered Swarovski Elements.
Soft pastels and luminous beiges added dreamy touch to large flared skirts,
evening gowns and draped blouses with saris in the third act.
Accessorized with chunky jewelry and oversized turbans resembling wilted flowers
in velvets and feathers and large Swarovski Elements added European chic from
bygone era.
Varied techniques of printing, dyeing and shading, integrated with embroidery,
cutwork and embossing, enriched the luxurious chiffons, glossy satins, two
toned sheer georgettes and crushed taffeta silks.
Jewelry for the collection was specially designed and coordinated by English
designer Pieter Louis Erasmus.
Raakesh Agarvwal trained at NIFT, Delhi and went on to work for Tarun Tahiliani as head designer. He launched his own studio in 2005, which is known for creating glamorous yet comfortable apparel.
Lucky to be selected for the Delhi Couture Week 2010, Raakesh Agarvwal youngest
of the lot of designers, showed a lot of grit and professionalism in his immaculate
presentation with a young refreshing appeal.
Mainly western silhouettes in colourful short cocktail dresses, crop jackets; gowns were draped in body hugging styles. Soft fabrics were draped into body
sculpted forms with commendable dexterity. He used built in structures to
achieve desired 3-D forms. All garments, well cut and beautifully finished, would
have the connoisseurs of Couture take notice.
Smart that he is, he did not miss out on showing the ubiquitous chiffon saris,
sexy bustiers and delicately embroidered lehangas, because this is indeed, where
the moolah is.
The collection was draped in fluid gold and silver lame`chiffons, light velvets,
two tone georgettes, Charmeuse satin and drapey silk jerseys.
And the fabrics were rendered rich and luxurious with intricate Zardozi and Aari
work, custom dyeing and Swarovski Elements.
Colours ranged from warm tones of shimmering flesh, soft peaches, blushing pinks
to fuchsia and deep wines.
The collection was over accessorized with cuffs, bracelets, belts and neck
pieces created by the enthusiastic designer, from Swarovski Elements crystals,
moulded acrylic, beads and chains.
High on commercial viability Raakesh has a long way to go, in the arena of
bespoke couture.
Rina Dhaka started out small in the eighties but her creativity and innovativeness has taken her miles ahead on to an International platform. Her designs are geared towards the modern and confident woman, which had her designing for the Miss India events. Her specialty is her western wear line and knits. She is also the recipient of the Yuva Rattan Award.
Reena Presented a Cobwebbed collection at the Delhi Couture Week 2010. As the lights
zoomed on to the stage, a model stood still like a spider against a web- o-
graphic prop.
True to her signature style of shocking the audience, she commenced the show
with a white bikini ensemble trapped in a fishnet wrap.
Rest of the collection was also very sexy and revealing. Soft, skimpy wraps and
sarongs were teamed with bra cup tops laden with Swarovski Elements silver studs
and crystals.
Flared kurtas and churidars, lehanga choli and dresses had contemporary western
appeal.
Primarily white in colour and embellished with silver blingy bling, collection appeared to have been put together rather hurriedly.
The diaphanous chiffon saris were smart and sexy, draped over tight slacks and
churidar pyjamas, offered a great option for the bold and beautiful.
Surfaces were textured and embroidered in a variety of hand crafted techniques
in tone on tone threads and metallic trims.
Her piece-de-resistance adorned by stunning Lara Dutta in a shimmering black
chiffon drape with a fish tail conjured an image of the legendary Shakuntala.
Reena looked ravishing in her own creation as she took the bow.
The designer duo Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla did not get a formal training in fashion designing but learnt the craft by working with designers and export houses. Abu Jani hails from Mumbai and was known for his creative streak. He worked with designer Xerexes Bhartena and assisted with designing costumes for several films, and later plays like Evita, post which he started out on his own. Sandeep Khosla belongs to Kapurthala, who started with working in the family export house and moved on to Xerexes Bhartena. The two teamed together to launch their label Jashan in 1989 and have an enviable client list from across global celebrities.
Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla presented “Almost 24” for the finale of Couture Week
2010.
Returning after 4 years to the catwalk they opened the show with shimmering silver
lungi and portrait collar bustier and marked a new beginning for the designers who
are better known for their tonal subtlety.
Their trade mark creamy whites appeared with lot of silver trims and surfaces
in flowy soft feminine styles for occasion wear. Breezy gowns, sheath skirts and
blouses marked the first collection.
White chiffon sari with flamenco style frills and all silver blouse was a very
funky idea. Multi coloured floral thread embroideries mounted on a trellis of
geometrical bling lend folkloric appeal to the classic shapes. The motifs were
simple and naïve and they looked very charming in beautifully hand crafted
embroideries.
Loads of sequins arranged like liquid metal in hues of gold ,copper and bronze
reiterated the trend of unrestrained bling which kept appearing in all the
designer collections we saw during the couture week.
They showed a variety of silhouettes drawn from the classic styles with quirky
twists like shararas with contemporary tops, open lehangas coordinated with
tights and pyjamas, long sherwanis and flared dresses with a lot of
flambouyance.
The Gothic black collection offered sharp and crisp options for sexy cocktails
evenings.
The show ended with Shweta Bachhan and Bret lee walking the ramp to mark the
closing of the six day event.
