Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week, Asia’s biggest business event for the fashion industry, is back again with the collections for the Spring Summer 2012 season. The event is being held at the Hall No. 18, India Trade Promotion Organization (ITPO), Pragati Maidan, New Delhi from October 8-12, 2011. We at RVG NewsVision bring you daily coverage of selected shows with detailed reviews specially written for us by Asha Baxi, senior faculty NIFT.
Namrata, a NIFT graduate, launched her clothing line in India in 1996 under the "Namrata Joshipura" label. In 1999, Namrata represented India and won second prize at the Asia Pacific Young Designer's Show, held during Hong Kong Fashion Week. The following year, she was the first Indian designer to be selected to participate in the "World Young Designers' Award Ceremony" at the London Fashion Week and she later presented her collection at the 'Indian Show" in Sao Paolo, Brazil. Namrata has also designed the costumes for the award winning Indo-German film "Dance of the Wind" which captured prizes at both the London and Nantes Film Festivals.
Namrata Joshipura-Keeping her grip on real experience Namrata’s luxe minimalism was inspired by the textural variety of nature and colours of a desolate glacial landscape.
She fused contemporary silhouettes with modern interpretation of tech craft embellishments stripped down to reflect barren landscapes.
The collection acquires sharp structured look with straight cut shirt dresses, sheath skirts, spangle shorts , peek a boo jackets and spangle pants. With long dresses and sinewy gowns she further delves into evening glamour chic.
Grey tones wash over the dark palette with ubiquitous black, ivory, nude, moraine grey, warm charcoal and ebony with accents of sunny orange.
Bland surfaces of organza, silks and chiffons are livened up with silk embroideries, floral prints, black sequins and textural sheen.
Three dimensional solid insertions were popped in to achieve wavey contours as unconventional surprise element in waves shorts, kinematic waves top, waves skirt and dress.
As always her consumer focused collection and no nonsense feminine chic enthralled the audience.
SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS: FALL/WINTER 2012/13 INNOVATIONS DRAW ON THE CITY FOR INSPIRATION
This season’s innovations from SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS mirror the trend towards embracing an urban way of life. With its melting pot of communities and cultures and its rainbow-hued expressions of creativity, the city provides inspiration for the newest cutting-edge crystal additions to emerge from SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS’ design studios.
New colors provoke new artistic expressions
Confidence characterizes the newest shades to grace the SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS color spectrum, in tune with the positivity that stems from a collective desire to preserve natural and urban culture in equal measure.
The associations with the color blue are powerful and universal. We live, after all, on the blue planet; blue has a profoundly calming effect on the psyche; and blue skies signal optimism. The addition of Denim Blue to the color range brings with it all this and more: it is hip and practical, and it connotes a sense of freedom; it is sophisticated and understated, and it is unisex; it also works for everything from casual sportswear to elegant eveningwear. Designers have long accorded the color blue pride of place in their palette because of its capacity to unify so many diverse hues across the spectrum.
A member of the same tonal family, the new Crystal Petrol Pearl effect was inspired by the deep teal blue tones of a peacock’s feather. Crossing the gender divide as nimbly as Denim Blue, it works as well for tough utility gear as for more formal wear, either on its own in a block of color or as an accent with browns, greens, copper or yellow.
The new Crystal Antique Pink effect signals the design world’s re-engagement with the romantic, rosier side of life, a dreamy, backward glance to the 1950s. Designers will delight in its adaptability and the harmonizing influence it has on so many other shades.
Pankaj graduated with top honors from NIFT Delhi. He won the ‘Uma Nath Gold Medal’ for topping academics and the ‘Ritu Kumar’ Award for Best Graduating Collection 1995. He also won the first Smirnoff International Fashion Award in 1994. After that, he worked with one of the India’s top designers as Head of Design for 10 years. Here he met and married his colleague Nidhi, who has also trained at NIFT Delhi. The duo launched their label in May 2006. They have won the Elle Style Award for Best Debutant Designer and the Elle Style Award for Best Prêt-a-porter collection at the Wills India Fashion Week across two subsequent seasons.
Pankaj & Nidhi- Naïve paper craft techniques found artistic expression in Pankaj Nidhi’s collection for spring/summer 2012. Shifting focus from conventional embroideries to decorative art techniques of paper folding, stencil cutting, origami trims and accessories was a refreshing change and a visual delight.
Their womenswear line of classic western silhouettes was young and peppy. Shift dresses, sheath skirts, shirts , blouses and pants in pure cottons and paper silks were clean cut and sporty. Surfaces were treated in baroque style with vinyl and leather cutouts in pristine whites and contrasting blacks with flashes of neon, blues, greens and tangerine.
Folded scalloping and shaded embroideries; woven leather biscuits and intricate tape embellishments were meticulously crafted and interwoven to achieve unusual textures and surfaces. Shiny vinyl appliqués in pop stencil like patterns stood out for their graphic simplicity and easy care instructions . Origamy accessories with light effects were magical in total darkness of the hall.
Wendell Rodricks' gave in to his fashion designing skills only after a foray into hotel management. Thereafter he trained in Los Angeles and Paris and returned to India in 1988 to style for such companies as Garden Vareli, Lakmé and DeBeers. He established his label in 1990. He was the first Indian designer to participate in the famous IGEDO fair in Dusseldorf. In 1993 he moved to Goa to his ancestral village. He is the patron of the Kasturba Gandhi Memorial Trust, Goa to promote hand spun Khadi and retailing at the country's best stores including the celebrated Wendell Rodricks Design Space in Panjim.
Wendell Rodricks- Swirling waves, palm trees and handsome musicians recreated lively flavour of the rock era of 60’s and 70’s beach parties in Goa, also reflection of the decadence that followed the carefree hippie life of music and dance and……..!!
Playing with volume, androgyny and fluidity, a breezy collection of elegant lounge wear comprised A-line dresses with structured neckline, airy beach dress in georgette with curved dart seam, oversized linen shirts teamed with Bermuda shorts, oversized shirt dress trimmed with organza ruffles, white linen flower power bolero, stretch dungarees, backless crop top, crinkled palazzo, Nehru jacket and T shaped kaftans. Once again the cuts and fits were easy and comfortable best suited for any shape, age and size.
Light weight fabrics like linen, georgette, silk crepe, satin, silk organza, gauze cotton, malkha cotton and crinkled cotton were soft and crispy in pristine whites, blues, magenta and black.
The malkha cotton used in the collection was made from organic cotton fibres with eco friendly procedures.
Amidst the high voltage energy of the ambience the show closed with moonlight white, bridal beach gown scattered with rose petal confetti and swirling butterflies.
Rahul Mishra is a physics graduate from Kanpur with a passion for fashion design. He did his Master’s program from National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad and subsequently from the Instituto Marangoni, Milan, Italy. He has applied every aspect of his education to work on techniques for creating reversible and seamless garments. He also won the International Designer of the Year Award for the Most Commercial Collection, an annual event organized by the International Apparel Federation in Netherlands.
Rahul Mishra- Superfine light weight transparent ensembles punctuated with linear graphics and organic motifs drawn from symbols of nature marked Rahul Mishra’s dream collection for Spring Summer 2012.
The collection featured classic shapes and dainty silhouettes in asymmetric mode for a summer cool look. Organza-tulle translucent tunic, asymmetric sheer dress, transparent organza top & degrade silk shorts, asymmetric silk bottom wraps, short black skirts and dresses teamed with sheer shirts and tops, soft pyjama pants with feminine jackets and sexy long dresses offered possibilities of personalized coordinates.
Fabrics were sheer, light weight ranging from crisp tulle, organza to soft fluid chiffons in pure silks specially hand woven for the collections.
The colour palette was limited to Ivory, whites , black, blue and blood red.
Essentially plain, the surfaces were embellished with delicate appliques` in leaf pattern, simple floral pattern and geometric shapes in sheer materials. Strategic placements of appliqués along pintucks, pleats and thread embroidery were cleverly manipulated . Graded dyeing was also done sparingly. The signature look was much appreciated for its craftsmanship and minimal style.
James Ferreira entered the women’s fashion business nearly four decades ago, an unusual profession for a man at that time. He undertook a course in textile designing at the JJ School of Art in Bombay. Along with that Ferreira did a tailoring course at Sheroo Cooper’s Academy of tailoring. With Orkay Mills he was one of the team of international designers who created garments for export to Europe and London. Then it was creative Touch, another boutique followed by Indian Textiles at Taj Mahal Hotel, Bombay. Shalimar and Yasmeen Exports gave Ferreira a taste of the export market again. Baba Saab, the high fashion men’s boutique that creates garments for men like Amitabh Bachchan was his next stop. A chance introduction with top British designer, Zandra Rhodes, he sought a job with her and worked with her for four months. His present assignments are with Eternia for a more medium-priced ready-to-wear line and as creative head for Kala Niketan, the sari house.
James Ferreira- Inpired by the understated elegance of Gandhi, Lady Mountbatten and James Ferriera unleashed nationalistic fervor full on with old Indian melodies, Indian silhouettes and KHADI INC. His sentiment was echoed by the audience who sang and cheered the designer in high decibels through the show.
Khadi fabric was specially woven, Italian georgette was specifically printed with khadi weave and thereafter subtly embroidered with pita work and new appliqué techniques to give lightness the the collection..
James created melifluous silhouettes with ease of movement and comfort.
Ghagra layered with sheets of organza and light weight khadi combined with pita work. Elegant Georgette saris in fresh summer shades and embroideries coordinated with beautifully draped blouses. Short and softly flared silk kurta teamed with churidar, dhotis transformed into jumpsuits, long slim gowns in silky satin with printed khadi insertions, short dresses with draped elements were infused with young Indian spirit.
The colour palette was vibrant with new shades of orange, lime green, and fuchsia juxtaposed with neutral shades of natural fabrics.
The show ended with standing ovation from the audience. Aproud moment for James who returned to mainstream fashion after a break of two decades.
Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna are buddies who design for their label Cue. They have made their mark in prêt western wear for men and women. They specialize in contemporary designs with great emphasis on silhouettes and detailing. Their collection for Spring/Summer 2009 carries the theme, 'An Ode to Joy'.
Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna- the best selling designer brand at wills lifestyle stores were selected to close the Spring Summer 2012 fashion week with the grande finale show on the last day of the Fashion Week.
True to their style the stage was set up with colossal mirrors to suit the glamorous, corporate look of their formal evening wear. The back drop columns were movable and the ramp was laden with reflective mirrors. Smoke arising from the middle created a fuzzy screen of infinity through which appeared the models in stunning metallic dresses. Sharp cuts, crisp movements and monochromatic tones perfectly blended with the ambience.
Elegant and sophisticated , the shapes were moulded and body contouring. Little black dresses, gowns and three piece ensembles were detailed with yokes, cut out peek-a boo backs, sharp necklines, asymmetric sleeves and armholes.
Surfaces and texures used monochromatic sequins in unusual shapes and sizes, mat finish metallics were juxtaposed with shiny trims.
Transparent sheers were mixed with opaque satins, hand made tassels created shifting shimmer in cocktail dresses. Organza, satin, crepe and silk were favoured choices for fabrics.
The colour palette was dark with shades of black, charcoal, grey, blues and broken whites. They were further graded in metallic, powdery and mat finishes.
The collection will be marketed from the wills lifestyle stores.
