The Lakmé Fashion Week, a leading event for the fashion industry is back again with the LFW Summer/Resort 2011 collections, which will be held from March 11th – 15th, at the Grand Hyatt, Mumbai. Designer Anamika Khanna’s show will be held off-site on the eve of the event, on the 10th March, at the Tote on the Turf. Newsvision brings for its readers the daily coverage reports of some of the most special design collections, with reviews written specially for us by fashion expert M.Mistry.
Romantic long flowing chiffon and georgette gowns in pastel colours
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Bright colours for men’s suits, trousers and shirts
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Laser cuts for garments
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Embroidery motifs like kites, swinging necklaces, stars, diamonds - Swarovski Elements, and brooches
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Opulent ball gowns in tulle and taffeta for Red Carpet entry
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Origami for men's and women's wear
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3D giant rosettes for gowns
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Quirky themes like kites, oceans, galaxy
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Form fitting corsets and bustiers
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Pastels black and white as colours
Atithi Gupta is an alumnus of Pearl Academy of Fashion, and had debuted as a Gennext designer at the Lakme Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2009, in Mumbai. She has also showcased her collection as an Emerging designer Lakme at the Summer/Resort Wear 2010 and Winter/Festive 2010 collection. This is her fourth season at the Lakmé Fashion Week. The label retails from various multi designer stores in India and abroad.
In the emerging designer category Atithi Gupta had a few striking pieces in her collection called “Ella” created for the contemporary dynamic woman. Using pleats, folds and twists in strategic places, Atithi kept the colour story earthy to match the beauty of wet and dry sand, mud, stone and grass for fabrics that ranged from cotton, silk, organza to crepe and chiffon.
The silhouettes moved from pullovers and kimono shouldered dresses, ruffled necklines and the petal folded shorts to pleated bodices and jumpsuits. Embroidery was used on yokes and boleros while shimmering cutwork was reserved for side panels of cocktail dresses. Garments that had possibilities were the opening draped dress, the mud dress with the black half side belt and the front draped smock.
What was lacking was a creative thread in the collection since it comprised random pieces in varying styles trying to come together as one look. Atithi needs to get her designing philosophy right then work on a range of colours and fabrics instead of getting too esoteric in her vision.
Finishing of the garments also needed more care since some of the designs may have looked good on paper but did not translate well in reality. Atithi Gupta needs to plan and execute her collection with care to make an impact in the very competitive market.
SWAROVSKI is delighted to present the second issue of its bi-annual publication, Salt. With sumptuous photography, leading-edge fashion and inspirational demonstrations of the many extraordinary uses for crystal, Salt celebrates the full spectrum of sparkling design, from lighting, interiors and architecture to fashion, accessories and jewelry.
Throughout Swarovski’s long history, stars of the stage and screen from Marilyn Monroe to Maria Callas have exuded crystal glamour. This issue, a behind-the-scenes look at two film sets continues that tradition. Black Swan’s stylish and gripping take on a ballerina’s pathological perfectionism features six magnificent Trilliane chandeliers and costume masterpieces from Rodarte designers, Laura and Kate Mulleavy, all emblazoned with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS. Burlesque, by contrast, is a louche take on the smouldering burlesque lounge, a mood amplified by Michael Kaplan’s extravagantly spangled, over-the-top corsets and costumes, often made from gold chains interlinked with shimmering SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS.
Among this issue’s star-studded line-up of big-name personalities is real-life burlesque icon, Dita von Teese, who talks about her brand of feminist glamour, complete with stage costumes ablaze with so many crystals that she was once asked if she was “plugged into the wall”. The ever-dynamic Karl Lagerfeld muses on his distinguished couture career and Inca-inspired jewelry for Atelier Swarovski; bright young Ulsterman Jonathan Anderson, reflects on the nuances of incorporating SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS into men’s apparel; and boy wonder of the New York fashion scene, Joseph Altuzarra, sheds light on his penchant for boldly sexy, post-modern urban glamour, and the Bakelite-inspired, pop-feel pieces he has designed for Atelier Swarovski.
In a striking tribute to Swarovski’s long-held tradition of partnering with leading names in the fashion world, Australian photographer Beau Grealy evinces a painterly quality in his portraits of seven distinguished fashion designers....
Abhishek Dutta trained in the craft of fashion designing at the Wigan & Leigh College, where he was an award winning student. He is the Winner of Smirnoff international fashion award. His creative talent ranges across women’s wear, men’s wear, ethnic and contemporary styles. He also designs accessories. His collection is available globally and has been part of Bali fashion week, Asia fashion week, Singapore fashion week, Wills India fashion week and Lakme fashion week..
The title of the collection was “The Kite Runner” so Abhishek Dutta decided to bring in the theme in a literal manner at times. There were dashes of interesting detailing which worked with some of the men’s and women’s garments, but at times the remaining outfits were too over styled to make a style statement for the wearer.
The colour story was well defined with canary yellow, tangerine orange and grape to offset the basic ivory, beige and steel. The origami folds were interesting when used sparingly; but in excess they looked too busy on the garment. There were hints of different hemlines, placards and seams and the laser cuts, which were the focal point of the collection in shapes of kites, were used profusely for men’s and women’s wear or as embroidery. The silhouettes were relaxed with the trapeze cut or shifts, dresses, yoga pants and cool summer jackets to give the collection a more relaxed feel.
The yellow toga with asymmetric cut, the baby doll mini with white laser bodice and orange flared skirt, the embroidered sari, the cross over kurta, empire line grey and yellow tunic and the men’s grey suit with orange piping looked good on the models.
What did not work were the grey dress with red laser side pouches, the grey pleated shorts and blouse, the laser muscle sleeve Tees for men and the orange origami mini shorts.
Maybe next time Abhishek Dutta could consider keeping the theme more metaphoric and aim for simpler silhouettes with fewer points of detailing to create more stylish outfits.
Lila Tipnis belongs to a breed of designer who excel in their field even without any formal training. She launched her label LINARIKA in 1996 and 1997 was invited to showcase at the IGEDO fair in Düsseldorf whence she started out with her own signature label ‘Lina Tipnis’. Besides successfully retailing through stores in India, Europe & Middle East, she was also involved in setting up Raymond’s designer prêt stores concept-BE. She has had an exclusive showing of clothing fused with Indian art at the Katonah Museum in New York. She has designed for Queen Rania of Jordon. She is the recipient of the most prestigious Indira Gandhi young achievers award and very recently the Lions Gold International Award for the Designer of the Year-2009.
Simplicity at times ends up being a good seller, and if the finish is impeccable then the result is a win-win situation. The collection called “Fantastical Land” by Lina Tipnis had a line of 22 well thought out dresses, blouses, skirts and cowl pants, and gave the creations her design touches, which ranged from slim sheaths to shifts with extended shoulders and embroidery that resemble jewellery.
Creatively Lina preferred to restrict her designs to basic shapes but with hints of detailing that gave the outfits a definite focal point of interest
The colour palette ranged from blue to sienna, black, ochre and pewter in a fabric choice of dupion, and satin. Using her favourite Trompe L’oeil technique there were the chandelier and coin print. The interesting entries like the dress with circular sleeve and jewelled armour, the shift dress with harness around the armholes, the trapeze dress in mid night blue with embroidered front and sides, the dress with tiered sleeves and clusters on the shoulders, trench in black with pewter coins on collar and epaulet and the swinging necklace embroidery for a shift dress in Sienna made an impact.
Matching the collection was a new line of earrings and rings which Lina teamed with each outfit giving the whole presentation a very elegant and understated look.
Lina Tipnis has always kept her design story very subdued and created a perfect line each season that has sold well on the racks in India and around the world.
Designer Abdul Halder launched his career designing for Michael Jackson in 2002, and launched his Label ‘Abdul Halder’ in 2007. Since then the brand has showcased is various Fashion Events domestically and internationally, In Pret and Couture Lines. In 2008 he became the only designer in the world, to show case in United Nation head quarters New York, his list of celebs includes the likes of Kathleen Kennedy and Tracy Feddric. Judith Rasband (world number one image consultant) had this to say about Abdul Halder’s clothing, ‘ It’s A Treat To See What You Do.‘
Abdul Haldar played safe and did not try anything unconventional. With his collection called “Ode to Leisure” he went for the resort look with dresses, trousers and jumpsuits in colours that suited the warm weather. Mustard, orange, burnt red, fuchsia, hot pink and yellow were the basis of satin Lycra, viscose Lycra, stretch nets and metal art forms.
With a complete western wear line, Abdul preferred to keep the silhouette very form-fitting and sexy for the dresses, trousers, jumpsuits and blouses for women and for men it was shirts, button less jacket, trousers and narrow lapel jacket.
Detailing was restricted to gold bands which appeared on the sleeves, waist or hips for women’s wear. There was a link in the garments which could work as mix and match or single pieces. Shrugs were tiny jackets but lean, and the Tees were simple.
Commercially it will do well for Abdul Haldar, since the garments were basic and would appeal to the perfect 10 figures or the trendy male.
Pallavi studied art at the Camberwell College of Art & Design, London. After which she pursued a degree in Textile Design from the Chelsea College of Art & Design. Besides being the creative force behind Magnolia Martinique, Pallavi works with numerous international labels such as Roberto Cavalli, Jean Paul Gaultier, Costume International, Miss Sixty, Pinko, Guess Jeans, Paul & Jo, Valentino Group and John Galliano. In 2007, Pallavi launched her private label “NOT SO SERIOUS”, which is retailed from leading boutiques such as Carma, Ensemble, Aza, Ogaan, Fuel, Mogra & Store One. The label is also stocked by boutiques in France, Greece, Italy, Spain and the United Kingdom. The Designer’s SS’10 collection was exhibited at Pure in London, followed by Prêt a Porter line in Paris in September 2009, only Indian Designer to present her collection at Atmosphere in Paris and a regular at seasons at the Paris Fashion Week, London Fashion Week and Barcelona Fashion Week.
It was “A Pocketful of Posies” collection that Pallavi Mohan presented for Summer/Resort 2011, in soft feminine colours like ecru to blue and sun yellow along with khaki and then pink, peach and rose. Creating a romantic line inspired by the late Victorian era the collection for her label Not So Serous had the full maxi dresses with waterfall ruffle lace edging the sleeves, as well as long flowing gowns. There was a collection of peasant tops, lots of tiered dresses and baby doll tunics. Chiffon and mul along with denim gave the creation a summery look that were given detailing with 3D floral motifs teamed with metal chains.
The pale blue georgette dress with white embroidery, the Spanish lace frill hem halter dress, the pale blue ruffled dress, the maxi in shaded blue with lace insets and embroidery and the lilac shaded cotton layered outfit fitted well into the theme.
There was a trio of printed embroidered bands for dresses and the beige self-embellished dress, pink Ombre sun dress with shoulder corsage added to line. Tiny shorts were teamed with smocks or ponchos with lace bands and the line of feminine gowns had a breezy cool old world charm about them.
It was a collection that could work for women who love romantic nostalgic creations which are Pallavi Mohan’s signature style which she enjoys designing.
The duo Gauri and Nainika Karan were both students of economics before they went on to train at NIFT Delhi. Subsequently, in 2002 they launched their namesake label, ‘Gauri & Nainika’ in New Delhi. Their label specialises in ready-to-wear brand of western wear ranging from semi-formal styles to high-end demi-couture ones. With a design philosophy that is distinctly feminine and refined, their collections are being retailed all over the country at various outlets and exclusive boutiques.
Not many in India can create gowns like Gauri and Nainika can and they did not disappoint at the Grand Finale of the Lakmé Fashion Week. Their 31 creations called the “Fantasy” collection was a dream to behold in romantic colours like blue, green, pink and yellow and moulded to perfection into form-fitting bodices in fanciful shapes with the most opulent 3D rosettes that caressed the bodies of the models.
The endless metres of diaphanous tulle and the best of French lace and silk were turned into delightful ball gowns and cocktail dresses some with wired hemlines, can-can petticoats and long luxurious trails of fabrics that glided down the catwalk.
For Red Carpet events, no doubt the designer duo is the first choice of most celebs and Bollywood stars, since each garment is an individually hand draped story which is unique. But when it comes to commercial viability, obviously they cannot be produced in large numbers since they are exclusive pieces.
But the designers’ creations are what most women long for as they are truly works of art but may not be trend setting because of their impractical nature. While the shapes and forms were ethereal at times the giant rosettes seem a little repetitive and had been done by the pair a couple of season ago in a different colour palette.
But besides this small fact, the collection by Gauri and Nainika was beautifully finished and spectacularly presented.
