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Jewelry Heritage - Boucheron and the Indian royalty
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NewsVision brings for you a special two part feature on jewellery heritage in Europe and the Indian influence, written by Estelle Arielle Bouchet, who had interviewed Jean-Christophe Bédos, President of Boucheron in the “Salons” Place Vendôme. Estelle Arielle Bouchet creates EAB, Press and Image consulting, is the Director of public relations for the Fondation Calvet, one of France’s largest art foundation and owner of Avignon and Cavaillon museums. She is also on the board of editors of the TJF Magazine and collaborates with international editorial group Conde Nast and writes for Uomo Vogue, Vogue Italia, and Architectural Digest. The accomplished lady lives between Paris and Provence and we will be bringing you more about her in the next issue of Inside Luxury.
Interviewing Jean-Christophe Bédos, President of Boucheron in the “Salons” Place Vendôme, I have been extremely impressed by the huge French tradition Boucheron embodies, made of poetry, deep artistic and literary references and sense of supreme excellence. Not at random Boucheron is chosen for the great life events by the past and present monarchies.
Estelle Arielle Bouchet
The Indian style Heritage at Boucheron is rich. Below is a sum up of some of the main bonds, stories illustrating such a deep relationship – still there today - between the House and India.
 In 1928, the Maharajah of Patiala arrived in Paris and commissioned Boucheron to design jewellery that would show to advantage the fabulous treasure the Maharajah had brought with him: six trunks filled to the brim with pearls, emeralds and other precious stones.
The house of Boucheron was asked to create numerous settings, one in particular for a sensational 1,800 carats of emeralds. The Maharajah placed a total of 149 orders on the same day. The designers and jewellers worked for months and created hundreds of pieces. The order was so large that all the jewellers of the Place Vendôme were commissioned to help Boucheron complete the gargantuan task.
Such masterpieces allowed Louis Boucheron (Head of Boucheron from 1902 to 1959), along with his team of artists and technicians, to achieve a synthesis between Oriental tradition and Art Deco style, and established Boucheron’s international reputation once and for all.
 Besides, the Boucheron archives still contain a carefully-preserved album of the original designs created for Patiala.
In addition to the Maharajah of Patiala, many other Indian Princes have been important Boucheron’s customers. The Maharajas of Kapurthala, Lahore, Bikaner, Jaïpur, Jodhpur, Cooch Behar, Morvi, and Baroda, have all been clients of the House between 1918 and 1939. Boucheron has had a lot of direct success with some Maharanis as well like the Maharani of Baroda in 1949, her daughter the Maharani of Cooch Behar and her grand-daughter the Rajmata Gayatri Devi of Jaipur.
 To get back to Louis Boucheron, his search for the largest and purest precious stones took him all over the world. He made his first trip to India in 1909. While he was there, purchasing gems from the lapidaries of Jaipur, he fell in love with the 'pink city' and Jai Singh's astonishing 18th century observatory. Inspired, Louis Boucheron returned home with some traditional Indian women's jewellery.
He was particularly interested in the Nauratan (literally nine precious stones) bracelet, offered to young wives as a divine symbol. These were decorated with polished precious stones and would much later be the inspiration for some of the House's perfume creations.
In 1994, Boucheron wanted to revive this intriguing association of precious stones, the supernatural and femininity, so a perfume was born under the sign of the magical city. It was baptised Jaipur. The bottle, a mixture of crystal, gold and sapphire, takes its inspiration directly from the Indian Nauratan bracelet and contains a floral and fruity perfume. The open arc is reminiscent of a crescent moon, the earth's closest planet and a symbol of femininity and fertility.
 The Boucheron museum contains an Indian-style bracelet known as 757, created in 1994 as a tribute to Louis Boucheron's passion for India. It serves as a reminder that ancient symbols and myths are an inexhaustible source of inspiration and creativity.
The Jaipur High Jewellery collection, launched in 2004, is another rich example of this influence. “Pre shaped” polished stones were used for several of its pieces. The “Parvati” necklace was in pink sapphires, the “Jaya” necklace in pink tourmaline or blue sapphires, and the “Aditi” necklace in baroque cultured pearls. The light and the life of these stones rouse the desire to travel and to dream. Finding them in their almost rough form is extremely rare. A juxtaposition of the stone’s colour along with Boucheron’s superior craftsmanship results in an outstanding collection of majestic pieces, not unlike the pieces that were created for the Maharajah of Patiala in 1928.
Boucheron’s very latest High Jewellery creations often have Indian flair as well, which is one more representation of Boucheron’s forever close ties to the Orient, especially to Indian culture. |
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Marc Jacobs to launch his label in India
Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton’s star designer, has tied up with TSG International Marketing for its India launch. The youth brand, Marc by Marc Jacobs, will be the first to be launched in Delhi. Charu Sachdeva, CEO TSG group, is reported to have said that both men’s and women’s clothing as well as accessories will be available. The prices will start from Rs 3000. |
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"You can wear black any time. You can wear it at any age. You may wear it on almost any occasion. A little black frock is essential to a woman." - Christian Dior
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Indianised Luxury brands continue to sizzle
International luxury brands have awakened to the reality that rich Indians will always splurge on weddings, meltdown or not. Brands like Cartier, Hermes, Hugo Boss, Longines and Christian Dior are expecting a happy 30% plus sales growth in the upcoming wedding season. Working to cash in on this, not only are more new stores being launched, but their offerings are being indianised to cater to the local flavor. Claude Jaunin, Longines regional sales manager, said, "We introduced a special packaging embedded in gold and red five years ago which we will replicate this year too. We have also introduced elements such as diamonds, mother of pearl and gem stones in the watch and packaging because we see strong sales during the wedding season." Christian Dior has unveiled the limited edition Dior Christal Dazzling Automatic Watch,( Rs.7-8.5 lakh). According to Capgemini Merrill Lynch Asia Pacific Wealth Report 2008, there are 1.67 lakh dollar-millionaires in India and the luxury market is set to grow to $2.6 bil by 2015. |
Audi launches its R8 in India
Audi, the German luxury car manufacturer, launched its top end R8 in New Delhi on the 7th November. Benoit Tiers, MD Audi India, disclosed that Audi was hopeful of selling 15-20 models of R8 next year and that there has been a 312 per cent increase in sales with Audi delivering 884 cars. The R8 will be imported from Germany and will have a waiting period between 2-3 months post bookings. Five dealers are to be appointed to oversee the national sales of the car. |
Luxury Apartments have no takers in Mumbai
Stunning view of the Arabian Sea, located on posh Nepean Sea Road in south Mumbai, 12,000 sqft duplex apartments, costing a mere Rs 100cr, are some of the very attractive features of, Morarka bungalow project of Pankaj Shah, promoter of Satellite Group. However in face of the ongoing recession, no buyers have come forward and further construction activity has come to a grinding halt. Incidentally, Wealth Bulletin published by News Corp has rated this street as world's 10th most expensive.
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Luxury Italian wines for the connoisseur's table
Ferragamo, the luxury brand of Italian wines, is set to be launched in India in November. Finewinesnmore (FWM), a Mumbai based wine distributor, is importing five label exclusively across Marriot hotels in the country. Dharti Desai, CEO FW, is reported to have said that four red and one white wine in the luxury and premium category, will be launched by his company. The projected price range for the luxury wines will be Rs 5,000 - 7,000 (duty free) and Rs 15,000-20,000 at paid and consumer price. FWM also markets luxury wine brands Donnafugata & Cerretto from Italy and Chapoutier from France.
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Nya Nordiska – exclusive home textiles now in India
Nya Nordiska, the internationally recognized textile editeur based in Dannenberg, Germany, has finally been introduced in India by Maishaa at a recent launch in Emporio, New Delhi. Nya Nordiska designs follow the Scandinavian design school and is an iconic textile brand with more than 180 international design awards such as the Red Dot Award: Product Design, the iF design Award and the Design Award of the Federal Republic of Germany in Silver. The designers of Nya Nordiska — Diete Hansi Rontgen and Sybilla Hansi said, "A lot of research, technology and esoteric aesthetics goes into creating each textile." The fabric prices start at Rs.5,000 per meter. The Ritz, Hotel Burj Al Arab and Gaultier flagship stores are done up in Nya Nordiska textiles. |
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Boucheron signs eyewear license with Gold & Wood
 Boucheron, which is part of the Gucci group, is now offering eyewear. The Company has signed an eyewear license with Gold & Wood of Luxembourg for a duration of six years, starting 1st Jan, 2009. The previous eyewear deal between Boucneron and Italy’s Safilo Group SpA is due to expire at the end of the year. Only by September 2009 will Boucheron’s collection of sunglasses and optical frames be unveiled at the Silmp fair in Paris. Gold & Wood was founded as recently as 1995 by Maurice Léonard, and has become well known for using exotic woods, horn and other precious material. |
 Ferrari unveils Scuderia Spider to celebrate victory
Ferrari unveiled a limited edition open-top version of the F430 Scuderia, called the Scuderia Spider 16M as part of its victory celebration at the 16th Formula One Constructor’s World Championship at its Mugello circuit. Two colour schemes, the standard black-and-grey trim, and a tri-color livery option under the Carrozzeria Scaglietti Personalization Programme, are available for this version which has a top speed of 315 km/h. The extras for this model include a silver plaque on the dashboard and rear grill, a carbon-fiber clad roll-bar, and a central docking station for a 16GB Ferraro iPod Touch. The prices are not disclosed as yet but speculators tag it at US$ 277,000. |
 Freshly mined Light of Letseng – 478 carat diamond
Leseli La Letseng, or Light of Letseng is a 478-carat white gem, measuring more than 5 cm long and is the world's 20th largest diamoned. The christening of the giant rough diamond, mined from the Lesotho mine in Soutn Africa, was done in Dubai recently where it is likely to be bought. It has been evaluated to be worth upward of Dh 36.7 mil (US$10mil). The strong demand for the stones in Dubai prompted the diamond's unveiling during the Middle East China Diamond and Jewellery Summit, at the Atlantis hotel on Palm Jumeirah. The Letseng mine is the most elevated diamond mine in the world, which is why its stones have been described as "diamonds from the sky". Since opening in 2004, the mine has produced three of the twenty largest diamonds ever discovered. |
Trendy jewelry design from circa 1 BC
The finding of a perfectly-conserved 2,000-year-old gold earring inlaid with pearls and precious stones by archaeologists in East Jerusalem recently, is likely to create a big buzz amongst the big jewelry houses and result in a slew of replicas. The rare jewel was found during excavations in the ruins of a building dating to the Byzantine period. The earring dates from the Roman period between 1 BC and 4 AD. It is made of a coiled gold hoop and has a large inlaid pearl in its centre and two identical gold pendants, each of which is adorned with an emerald and pearl. |
Tiffany’s diamond mobile phone by Japan's Softbank Moile
A line of diamond encrusted mobile phones were unveiled in Tokyo by Japan’s Softbank Mobile company. As per a company spokesperson, a limited run of only 10 phones, each studded with 537 diamonds from Tiffany & Co, a total weight of 18.34 carats, will be sold for around ¥ 13 mil ($130,265). The flip top phone’s display has also been designed by Tiffany. Japan is considered to be world’s largest luxury market and other luxury labels tapping into the mobile phone market were Italian brand Prada, launched by Softbank rival NTT DoCoMo Inc and another Italian brand Gucci, which has also started a website for Gucci goods accessible only by Japanese mobile phones. |
Christie’s Autumn sale will feature Subodh Gupta’s works
Christie’s Autumn sales of Asian Contemporary Art is to be held on 30th November and 1st December 2008 at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Center. More than 420 works of acknowledged contemporary masters from China, Japan, South Korea and India will be up for sale. Subodh Gupta’s works are also going to be a part of this sale, the combined value of which has been valued in excess of $30 mil.
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Vertu debuts with three new editions
Vertu’s three new editions of their Ferrari branded handsets are modeled on the Ascent Ti but with a difference. Unlike its previous phones for Ferrari, which also used the Ascent model, this time there is a simple prancing horse and bonnet detailing on the back in place of the shift gate and brake pedal on the back. Befittingly, the case is made of titanium. The black Vertu Ascent Ti Ferrari Nero is a limited edition of 2009 sets unlike the red Ferrari Rosso and yellow Ferrari Giallo. Find the usual exclusive ring tones along with engine sounds of the F430 and the 612 Scaglietti and music by Dave Stewart. |
 Cartier’s 'Attraction in black and white' on parade
Cartier personality, Monica Belluci, displayed the exquisite pieces from the 'Attraction in black and white' line, which is executed in Cartier's design-forward aesthetic, with the slinky Maillon Panthere de Cartier and elegant Caresse d’orchidees par Cartier standing out. The black and white theme is brought out by the use of white gold, black ceramic, onyx, mother-of-pearl and black sapphires.
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 Platinum forum in Munich
Inhorgents, the leading trade fair for watches, jewelry, gemstones, pearls, and technology in the EU, are holding an event in Munich from February 20-23, 2009, expecting a good response from the platinum industry's best and most famous manufacturers and designers. Gertrud Gross-Stahl, General Manager of the Platinum Guild International (Germany)reportedly said, "In the last few years inhorgenta europe has proved itself as an excellent platform. The Platinum Forum benefits from the many highly qualified visitors to the show. This is why we, or better, the Platinum Forum exhibitors expect strong results at the upcoming inhorgenta europe 2009." |
Boudoir D'Huîtres’s stunning S/S ’09 collection
Mimi Plange, the designer behind the New York based Boudoir D'Huîtres has created 14 looks for the modern woman as part of the Spring/Summer ’09 collection. The immensely wearable collection has the usual trademark trench coat and bustier jackets and dresses but the outfit to look out for is the Hibiscus Jumpsuit. The designs are unique and form fitting with body-contouring seams, hidden darts and built-in corsets for the jackets. |
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Chanel has Ezra Petronio on board
Ezra Petronio, editor in chief of Self Service Magazine, has been appointed by Chanel to oversee their art direction for their makeup and watch business. A company spokesperson clarified, “We need to keep a cutting edge to our visual communications.” Petrino, who in the past has handled beauty campaigns for Prand and Chloé, will continue in his previous positions in Self Service and as a director of Petronio Associates. He will report to Maureen Chiquet, Chanel’s global chief executive officer
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Trendy to write
Pens as writing instruments have undergone a revolution over the past decade and have been popularly replaced by cheaper throwaway versions. The elegance of a well crafted pen is a luxury which only some can afford to experience and appreciate. Here are a few outstanding works of art to hold on to.
Montblanc’s George Bernard Shaw Limited Writers edition pays homage to Bernanrd Shaw’s popular creation from My Fair Lady, Eliza Doolittle with its dark green marbled lacquer finish exterior and flower design on the nib.
Giorgio Armani’s first collection of luxury pens is called The Regal Collection. The fashion house partnered with Tibaldi, the Italian experts in writing instruments, to bring out this limited edition of 199 pieces only. The famed GA initials are carried on the 18K gold nib and the pen cap.
Conway Stewart’s Evolution is a revolutionary luxury writing instrument, which adjusts its balance and center of gravity to suit each user’s writing style and preference. The solid silver engraved pens are handcrafted in Devon, England and only 200 pens are to be made.
Montblanc’s Bohème Arabesque Azur Collection for ladies is a 925 sterling silver body pen, inspired by the spirit of dance and movement. The nib is, of course, 18K gold.
Caran d’Ache’s limited edition Tribal African Mask pens are decorated with details of the African elephant and different African masks. The solid silver pen’s cap is embellished with a semi precious stone. Look out for the Caran d’Ache logo and artist Edouard Jud’s signature on the ring
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Christian Dior translated by Chinese Artists
 Sponsored by luxury brand Christian Dior, contemporary Chinese artists will create art works focusing on the founder Christian Dior and their current designer John Galliano. These art works of more than 10 cutting edge Chinese artists will be on display at the new 87,000 sqft contemporary art and design museum, Guy and Myriam Ullens Foundation, constructed next to the iconic "bird's nest" Olympic stadium in Beijing. Artist Liu Jianhua had translated into porcelain, Dior's boots, shoes, handbags and perfume bottles. Zhang Huan has created a portrait of Christian Dior in incense ash. Li Songsong has a giant Lady Dior bag in neon lights and Liu Wei's extraordinary effects with dog chewings will be applied to Dior's "Cocotte" dress. The collaboration of a Luxury fashion house with Chinese art, is not new and in the past Salvatore Ferragamo held an exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Art; as did MaxMara, which opened its traveling exhibition "Coats" last month at the Namoc Museum in Beijing and LVMH had Zhan Wang create a steel sculpture for it Hong Kong store.
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The bejeweled animal kingdom
The Italian jewelry designer, Roberto Coin's Animalier collection’s inspirations are quite obviously the creatures of the wild. The beautiful pieces reflecting cobra scales, elephant hide, turtle shells, and the spots on giraffes and leopards are made of diamond-encrusted and enamel-accented silver and gold. The signature mark of the artist, a single red ruby, has been added to every piece. It is also the symbol of protection.
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Marketing the Indian Inspiration
 Few know the intense relationship (mentioned in the feature above) between upscale French jewellery house, Boucheron and Indian maharajas starting with that of Patiala. Similarly there are other little known close interactions between Louis Vuitton, Cartier and others. In a sense these luxury brands are returning to new India through the retail store route. Some observers wonder whether India will be fertile grounds for these retail transplants. There is no doubt that it will, even if not a run away success as China which stands number three today in luxury consumption. However, the business requirements for marketing luxury products are steep, with deep and even enduring pockets a must. This leaves little room for franchisees saddled with a committed ‘minimum payouts’ to the big brands. Already one hears of a number of tie-ups in trouble. Many of the foreign luxury brands see the writing on the wall and have opted for 51% equity in Indian ventures. In fact the Government should permit luxury brands 100% equity and let them do what they know best. Surely the corner kirana is unlikely to have his feathers ruffled for this! |
EDITOR
IN CHIEF : VINOD KAUL |
EDITOR
: NEELIMA MISHRA AGRAWAL
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