Now a Kolkata Fashion Week from the east

The fashion weeks are growing like mushrooms it would seem. The first ever Kolkata Fashion Week (KFW), organized by Mindscape Group of Companies is being held from 2nd-5th April, 2009. Some of the participating designers, whose names are mentioned in the press release, are Bibi Russell, Ritu Kumar, Narendra Kumar, Mona Pali, Zubair Kirmani, Manoviraj Khosla, Sharbari Dutta, Abhishek Dutta, Anjana Bhargav, Marg and Dev R Nil. The choreographers are Aparna & Tanya from Delhi and Alison Kanuga from Mumbai and Edward Lampuria is the stylist for the weave shows. The event is being handled by Vaishnavi Corporate Communications.

Ritu Kumar calls the size 0 a conspiracy

Ritu Kumar, the Grand Dame of Indian fashion, engaged Nicholas Coleridge of Conde Nast in an argument on the west’s fascination with the size 0. While speaking at the Jaipur Literature Festival, Kumar said, "The size zero syndrome was fed by ramps to the world and these unrealistic proportions were anti-women and create an intense dissatisfaction. This in turn motivates people to buy and change their wardrobe constantly. It's a conspiracy and a very unhealthy one.” Coleridge spoke in the defense of British models and said, "Models used in Vogue Britain and even in Vogue India are never extremely thin. In fact, there are strict laws in Britain. We reject those models who look emaciated. The ones used are naturally thin and normally 17 to 19.” With historical references being made to well-endowed women of yore as represented in Titian’s paintings or the Ajanta paintings, Coleridge recalled the analyses of socialists that the sizes reflect the economic conditions of the time. He said that when Titian painted, people did not have much to eat, and a healthy body was a sign of wealth, and hence aesthetically appealing. Now that the recession is here good and strong, is flab going to be fab again?

FDCI’s social initiative for retired models

In a first of its kind initiative, the Fashion Design Council of India has announced its intentions to launch a ‘Model Rehab’ program, wherein the Council will provide assistance to out-of-work models to re-establish themselves. This would involve providing better agents and training to find alternative careers like choreography or imparting training to younger models. Rina Dhaka is said to be the brain and heart behind the idea. Sunil Sethi has supported the venture and declared that the program will be implemented after the Spring/Summer Fashion Weeks in March this year. He has reportedly said, "During a recent meeting of the board and management, this idea was proposed as one of the CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) activities that we must work towards." The financial end of the program is still being worked out.

Padma Lakshmi’s Kitchen-Inspired Accessories Line

Padma Lakshmi, the Indian born culinary expert who hosts the cookery show ‘Bravo’s Top Chef’ on TV and is the writer of books on the same topic, is bound to find food and condiments as inspiration, even if it is a jewelry line. Not surprising than that her necklaces have gold ‘pod’ charms, fish bones are on the earrings and there is the calla lily charm ring. Under the ‘Nav’ segment are creations that are based on the ancient Hindu philosophy of balancing a person’s ‘prana’ or chi. The ‘Navratnas’ or nine gem stones that are traditionally worn in India to achieve a balance of the planetary influences, are used exquisitely. The line is available at Bergdorf Goodman and retails at around $375 to $6,600.

Future Group plans – Rent-a-tuxedo/shervani/jewelry/bag

Future Group is in plans to start an outlet where a customer can hire at nominal costs, an outfit or accessory for the next grand outing without the need to go and spend big bucks on shopping. They will also have a sale counter for second hand clothes. As per analytical survey done by Angel Broking Ltd, the market for renting clothes in huge in India because of the trend for dressing up for lavish weddings and grand festival celebrations. Mr Kishore Biyani, Managing Director of Pantaloon Retail (India) Ltd and the Group Chief Executive Officer of Future Group, reportedly said, "Nothing is concrete as of now. We are just exploring this idea further."

Inkfruit’s world wide web of designers for t-shirts

Kashyap Dalal and Navneet Rai, the brains behind the endeavor of Inkfruit t-shirts, have hit the jackpot within barely five months of the launch of their plan and are already selling more than 5000 t-shirts per month. The site gives every potential designer an opportunity to achieve a creative high by having his/her design on a t-shirt. An online, ongoing contest every month, of all uploaded Corel Draw and Photoshop designs are voted upon using a weighted average algorithm. Eight of the best designs are chosen and these designs are then used to make T-shirts with their creators being rewarded with cash prizes and acclaim within the community. These are than manufactured at competitive prices and are already being sold through 35 outlets in Mumbai, Pune, Bangalore and Ahmedabad. With the break-even target looking very achievable, the plans are already afoot to expand the existing product line. Navneet Rai reportedly said, "We're looking at getting into other products such as sling bags, calendars, photo frames and wallpapers. All the designs will be sourced from our community on the Web." A very successful international company based on a similar model is Threadless.com, which retails over 80,000 T-shirts a month.

Kimaya Avenue’s Southern move

The luxury fashion store, Kimaya Avenue, launched its 10,000sqft boutique in Nungambakkam, Chennai and UB City, Bangalore recently.
Kimaya Avenue in Chennai houses an exclusive collection of stores like Kimaya, Ayamik, Kimaya Bridal Salon, Kimaya Amore and international luxury brands like MaxMara and Pinko, along with ramp creations of popular Indian designers like Shantanu- Nikhil, Rocky S, Malini Ramani, Falguni and Shane, Pam Mehta and others. Pradeep Hirani, the founder of the store said, “The collection is made exclusively for Chennai and will not be found in any other Kimaya stores in the country. We want to offer the city what it deserves. We have collections by 147 designers from across the country and scores of Italian designers as well, who bring in the latest fashion, all under one roof.” The store offers features like video-conferencing, wherein the client can talk to the designer face-to-face. The store in Bangalore was inaugurated by Vijay Mallaya. New stores are in the offing for Chandigarh, Lucknow and Hyderabad. Pradeep Hirani expressed his dream of opening 48 stores across the country.

Nitin Bal Chauhan in Fashion Grand Prix at JFW Tokyo

Nitin Bal Chauhan, the immensely talented designer, filmmaker and artist, participated in the New Fashion Designer Grand Prix at the Japan Fashion Week on 14th January, 2009 where the exhibitions were held from the 13th-17th Jan, 2009. The initiative by FDCI to help talented and young fashion designers made it possible for Nitin Bal Chauhan to participate in this prestigious show. He is extremely sensitive to human suffering and this becomes the inspiration in all his work. The collection, selected for its structured and formal look, showed dark themes. The designer debuted at the Will’s Fashion Week in 2007, but he has already made an impact in the industry. As per reports, Nitin Bal Chauhan is planning on switching completely over to the medium of art in order to ‘speak his mind’. Chauhan, in an interview with IANS said, “All these are beautiful mediums of expression, but for some reason I cannot express all my beliefs through them so I will use the power of my sketching and painting to speak my mind.”


FDCI and FFI hold model auditions

WIFW A/U 2009 model auditions are being held on the 18th February, at the Intercontinental Eros, Nehru Place, New Delhi. The jury comprises Aparna Bahl, Ashish Soni, Ayesha Thapar, Rahul Khanna, Tinu Verghese, Varun Bahl and Vidyun Singh. The Fashion Federation of India held its own model auditions at the Le Meridian Hotel, Janpath. The jury for this audition comprised Rohit Bal, Malini Ramani, Alpana Mottak, Atsu Sekhose, Prahlad Kakkar, Fleur Xavier and Neha Kapur and fashion photographer Tarun Khiwal.

Designers with large hearts at NAZ Foundation's Fundraiser

The Naz Foundation (India) and Trust & Grey Goose Luxury Vodka organized a fundraiser for HIV+ children at the Embassy of Spain on 21st January. The evening of fusion of ‘Art, Music and Fashion’ had participation by people from various streams. The fashion designer body was well represented by JJ Valaya, Tarun Tahiliani, Manish Arora, Rajesh Pratap Singh and Ritu Kumar, all of whom contributed with specially designed memorabilia, which was put up for auction. Other memorabilia included Sachin Tendulkar's autographed bat, Bharti Kher's Artwork, Bharat Sikka, Prabuddha Dasgupta and Sunil Gupta's photographs etc.

Enter the new Fashion Council from the Ministry of Textiles

The brand new Fashion Design Promotion Council (FDPC), a Ministry of Textiles initiative, has come into effect and is sure to give a makeover to the existing plethora of fashion week formats. Vijay Singh, a Mumbai based businessman, is the secretary and CEO of FDPC. Kishore Biyani, head of Future Group (Pantaloons, Big Bazaar), is president of the governing council, and designer Raghavendra Rathore is the vice-president. The first job that the new CEO is set to tackle at the outset is to help Indian designers gain over global competitiveness. A report in HT reveals that both, the Fashion Design Council of India and the Fashion Foundation of India, have applied for affiliation. Vijay Singh reportedly said, “The new body has a clear strategy — first priority: creating a platform for “design excellence” so that Indian design can rule the world; second priority: giving young designers more room to showcase their work.” Shankersinh Vaghela, minister of textiles, who is the force behind this council, said,’One-fourth of the total resources of FDPC will be used for young designers’ promotion, and 5 per cent of its total membership will be reserved for NIFT graduates. Helping young talent has been the motivation for setting up the council.”
Designer Jatinn Kochhar, an FDPC member, was quoted to have said that, “For the first time, everyone involved with fashion will share a common platform. It means equal opportunity and equal respect.”

Armani’s $1mil gift to NYC schools

Giorgio Armani, who has just opened a 43,000 sqft flagship on Fifth Avenue, has announced at a press conference his intention to donate $ 1mil to The Fund for Public Schools, which seeks to bring in private investments in school reform and works to inspire more involvement by New Yorkers in the local school system. This grant will go towards establishing the multiyear Armani Arts Institute umbrella program, which will support arts programs in public schools in underserved neighborhoods, with an emphasis on schools in the Bronx. Armani went on to state that this was a better way to spend the money rather than hosting a big dinner.

Galliano rocks to Jai Ho!

At the Haute Couture Week for Spring-Summer 2009 in Paris, John Galliano, fashion director for Dior, walked in to take a bow to the Oscar winning tune of Rahman, ‘Jai Ho!’. With the movie ‘Slumdog Millionaire’ being the flavor of the season, it was not surprising that Galliano chose this music score. His collection too lifted the mood with their arty styles. Corsets with voluminous, crinoline skirts in chrome yellow, blues and ivory, were aptly accessorized with gorgeous, plumed hats

Dubai Fashion 2009 – an haute extravaganza

Dubai Fashion 2009 has commenced successfully with leading design houses like John Galliano, Karl Lagerfeld, Christian Dior, Stella Cadente, Ungaro and Valentino. This three day fashion fest is the highlight of the Dubai Shopping Festival 2009. John Galliano, who recently opened his store in the city, showed his collection for the first time in Dubai.

Jonathan Saunders puts a cap on hair styling at Fall 09 show

Jonathan Saunders did away with wacky head accessories and hairdos and makeup on models strutting his stunning collection. Without these distracting trappings, his outfits did stand out and he also managed to save on the additional costs of hairdresser. Smart! The collection was heavy on floral as well as geometric prints, metallic fabrics, golden brocade dresses and black tights.



Chalayan’s Transformer Dresses steal the show

The technological genius of Hussein Chalayan shone bright once again at the Paris Fashion Show and the audience gasped in amazement as his six Transformer dresses appeared on the runway one by one. A huge clock ticked in the background as the models appeared on stage, stood still and within a few seconds the dresses began to change shape. Jackets retreated, hemlines rose, crystal strings swung down and – presto- it was a crystal beaded flapper dress. A huge hat reeled in an entire sheer dress and a staid dress sporting the hour glass Dior New Look changed to the Paco Rabanne metal-link shift as the metallic panels rose up.

Unique recipes for dressing by Betsey Johnson

Betsey Johnson abstained from showing her fall/winter 09 line at the tents and instead set it up at her showroom. The theme, ‘Betsey Crocker’s Recipes for Dressing’, was aptly presented in a casual and fun setting of a full diner with a soda shop and a sweet shop serving mini martinis, macaroons and cake. The models walked around the room displaying the fabulous outfits, appropriately named ‘Cherry Cordial’, ‘Sock It To Me Stew’. Budding young society photographer, Liam McMullan and his friend Nick Hunt played waiter and served mini hamburgers and hot dogs. The line comprised pouf skirts, corsets, classic rose prints and plenty of sequins, flouncy tutu dresses with tulle, leopard print leggings. Shiny Style’s review said, “Betsey knows where her bread is buttered, and no doubt her new crop of young fans will love the collection, which managed to blend Paris Hilton cute with Avril Lavigne emo."




NY fashion week sings birthday song for Barbie

Barbie’s 50th anniversary is being celebrated in high style. At the New York fashion week, 51 top notch designers like Donna Karen, Diane Von Furstenberg, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, and Marchesa, created a visual couture biography of Barbie on the ramp as 51 models walked out in blond wigs and prom dresses. Ken was there too, duly represented.

Armani trousers copied by D&G

Giorgio Armani has accused Italian designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana (D&G) for copying his design for their autumn/winter collection. The bone of contention is the quilted trouser which Armani wore during a catwalk in June and D&G presented the same design in their collection for the next season. As quoted in Vogue.co.uk, Armani said, “Today they are copying me so when will they learn. I would have understood if they were nobodies but they are an established brand. I am honestly disappointed with this act.” The D&G designers didn’t flinch and retorted with, “We surely have plenty to learn, but certainly not from him. The Armani style was never a source of inspiration for us and it is years since we have bothered to watch his collections.”

Slimmer Haute Couture shows in the lean season

The spring/summer 2009 haute couture shows have taken off in Paris and New York. In response to the ongoing global meltdown, not yet showing signs of recovery, the shows are more scaled down. The number of days has been cut down to three instead of the usual four days and the catwalk shows are down to 20 from the 23 held last time in Paris. Didier Grumbach, president of the powerful French federation in charge of the Paris couture calendar, reportedly said, "We were the ones who told them 'Don't force yourselves to mount a show when times are so hard for you.' When it is risky for them, we encourage them not to spend the money on a show when it isn't necessary." While the bigger names like Dior, Chanel, Christian Lacroix, Givenchy, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Valentino were all there, many of the smaller designers abstained from participating due to lack of funds. Instead some of them opted to put up their creations on the Internet. The house of Chanel too has decided on showing its lines closer to its headquarters in the Rue Cambon, abstaining from the ritual grand showing at the Grand Palais. Of course, they are not admitting to any lack of funds as the cause.

Wardrobe Update for Spring/Summer 2009

By Paulomi Patel

The new season is upon us - almost. Here is a recap of the variety of trends that were on the spring runways. Some were suitable to the current zeitgeist, and some others took one’s imagination to fantasyland. Cut and paste it in your style folder for ready reference.

ALL TIED UP – Any way you tie them, bows are making their way into every detail for pre-fall fashion ensembles. From 1970’s inspired frilly neck tops to big 1980’s prom dress inspired bows that have already appeared on Molly Sims and Victoria Beckham - these girly details are truly divine.

The truly daring can pair a frilly neck top with high-waist pants and open toe booties for a seriously fierce office ensemble. And if you are feeling extra saucy, then go for the big satiny bow effect and look for cocktail dresses with a halter neckline and a bow tie at the back, or even a more retro style.

These smart knots are everywhere on designer runways – from Rosella Jardini’s kitschy add-ons to D&G’s surreal creations and Gauri & Nainika’s functional adornments. Fabulously feminine and stylishly sophisticated, a well-placed knot is most certainly a S/S 09’s tres chic must-have.

SHEER GENIUS – Sheer fabric is back as one of hottest 2009 fashion trends, and plenty of celebrities are wearing it. But don't worry, it's not all about tight, see-through tops, and dresses that scream 'look at me' as we saw in the 1990s. Run your eyes over the Spring/Summer 2008 and Spring/Summer 2009 runway collections and you'll find sheer fabrics used in a multitude of ways: tight sheer pieces, layers, and the much sought after delicate, feminine draping.

Show your skin through gorgeous slouchy tops from Tarun Tahiliani for Levis, or up the nude quotient with Anand Kabra’s summer frocks. If you’re the sporty type – Namrata Joshipura’s daintily embroidered noir jumpsuit or Louis Goldin’s white sheer leggings paired with a monotone tank will ensure your OTM status. Say hello to this summer’s staple – sheer outerwear. Designers – D&G, Armani, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Sonam Dubal, Varun Bahl…(the list is endless) – showed a multitude of transparent jackets and overcoats. Does not matter what you have on – a daytime dress or just a bikini – simply add a transparent coat and you’re good to go. As you can see, there’s a reason why we call this trend ‘sheer genius’.

STRUCTURED SHOULDERS – Structure in the form of boyfriend jackets and boxed shoulder gowns is making a huge impact and is set to be a big trend of 2009. However, this trend is likely to take a while to reach the high street, with designers such as Marni and Balenciaga showing quite exaggerated and defined shoulder structure for now.

Extreme futuristic-superhero styles of shoulder have also been making the rounds of late. This is a real fashion-forward look that won't be seen in everyday and high street fashion. This trend echoes a return to tailoring, which was a big for Autumn/Winter 2008 too. To achieve this look, for now a little goes a long way. So before you dig out your 80s hideaways at the back of the wardrobe, remember to keep shoulders structured and angulated. A tailored jacket will still help achieve this look in 2009. Go androgynous with sculpted shoulders. No we’re not saying there’s an 80’s shoulder pad revival on its way. S/S 09 is more about minimalist accents – think pointed shoulders, puff sleeves and sharp cuts – with clean lines and feminine silhouette. We suggest a Balmain jacket, a Vivienne Tam blazer or else go for a full-crafted Rohit Bal creation if you are in the mood for all out power-glam-chic.

FRINGE BENEFITS/FRINGE ACTION – Everything – clothes, bags, boots – absolutely everything was ornamented with a fringe this summer, and we are safely going to call fringe as one of the top trends for S/S 09. From a little flounce at Raakesh Agarvwal to tough chain-mails at Ann Demeulemeeseter and cowboy-style shirts at Vivienne Westwood, the native gaucho trailblazed runways all the way. Not too sure where to begin? Tarun Tahiliani’s tasseled denims are a good starting point. But for some real eye-popping action Drashta’s swishy rainbow frocks get all the brownie points and our chic vote as the season’s absolute go-to.

ORANGE – Orange has toned down towards desert inspired adobe, aged terra cotta, and warm copper. On lighter side Orange leans toward pink and the result is a lovely coral. These Oranges will move the color into more mainstream home decor and have broader appeal for fashion.

Orange, which was the color of the avant-garde in the late '90s, is still big and getting bigger. Mainstream designs simply use it to shock, while trendsetters are pairing it with hot, hot, pink. The color energizes neutrals, looks plucky in straw hats, and is the right bright for nearly all skin tones. The latest take on this happy hue is deep, dramatic, and ripe for the picking.

Choose from pale coral to bright blazing tangerine and everything in between.
Here’s how to wear your orange: Fancy that fiery sculpted one-shouldered piece by Lanvin or Nachiket Barve’s two-toned dress? Pair it with nude heels to keep the attention on the dress. Wearing an Orange frock? Glam it up with strappy gold sandals. Nervous about the blinding brightness? Work with separates – pair a bright top with plain jeans or a contrast skirt.

NEON: Acid colours made a come back but if crazy colour is not your style, you can still rock the trend with neon accents like Isaac Mizrahi’s subtle flashes or Blugirl’s bright accessories.

LIQUID LAME – Bored with all the pastels and monotones that have dominated your closet lately? Fast-forward to high glam with this season’s hottest fabric – lame. A pair of Prashant Varma lame pants is a surefire way to add some quick verve to drab daywear – just remember to combine with solid pastels to tone down the shine. For the evenings strut with confidence in a complete lame ensemble like on the runways of Marc Jacobs or for the less adventurous, a Swapnil Shinde lame dress will do just as well to up your glam quotient.

ZIPPERED – Zippers are popping up in some pretty unexpected places, and the effect is a tough-chic look almost anyone looks good in. This season, they are more than just the classic closures – long flirty half-zips on Philip Lim’s dresses added sensual feminity; a bright abstract roller on a Shantanu and Nikhil dress reminisced of art deco; exposed zips stood out on Henry Holland’s floral jumpsuits and at Versace too, zippers were in full action forming delightful hearts, petals and stars that brought a new level of fun to chic. What’s more, this is also the season’s easiest DIY trend – recycle an old dress – rip it apart and then join it up with extra-long zippers or just slap a few colourful bits on an old Tee – you’ve got your personalized zipped-pick for the season.

STATEMENT JEWELLERY – The economic meltdown is keeping you from doing bling? S/S 09’s fake bijoux is fashion’s answer to the r-word and our favourite way to lift those dampening spirits. Extra long necklaces – mini neck-installations actually – see Rajesh Pratap Singh, Rina Dhaka, Burberry, Oscar de la Renta – don’t break the bank and are just perfect to update any outfit.

PRINTS

SPOT ON: SS 09 runways were dotted. From Louis Vuitton’s polka pajamas and Sonam Dubal’s multi-sized ovals to Anand Kabra’s perfectly stenciled circles. To do the trend, pick anything spotted and remember, when it comes to dots, size does not matter. By the way did you catch M.I.A. at the Grammy’s, all dots and singing?

DIGITAL/TECH: Abstract digital prints continue to rule from last season. Keep in mind; pair your prints with solids. This season’s OTM fake accessories are also a great combination for this trend. But keep them minimal. So, if you’ve got a pixel-print Valaya dress on pile on solid chunky cuffs and leave the neck bare to get the best effect.

FLORALS: And, though we did expect florals to show up on runways – it’s summer after all – what we did not expect was blooms taking on a molten, painted, abstract look.

SECOND SKIN: Let your conscience be in peace and stay OTM at the same time with printed snakeskin. As with all prints, follow the ‘pair with solids’ rule, preferably black.

SEQUINS – When it comes to sequins, there are a few ground rules: Doesn’t matter if it’s night or day, sequins work.

If sequined outfits are too much bling – turn to accessories. And, if you’ve got something sequined on, you don’t need any other accessories.

ORIENTAL CHIC – No matter where we looked, we found the Orient present on the SS 09 runways – from Paul Smith’s allusion to the East – Turkish waistcoats and softly flowing harem pants – to Marchesa’s dreamy Asian-inspired mandarin-collared dresses and densely embroidered gowns. And on the home front too – Sonam Dubal, Anamika Khanna, Anand Kabra – there was more than just a little bit of East skyrocketing onto the catwalks.

PANTS PARADE – SS 09 runways saw pants of all kinds. Cropped trousers – Eley Kishimoto, Luella, Namrata Joshipura; Harem pants – Ritu Kumar, Asheema Leena, Ralph Lauren; Wide legged, high-waisted, flare trousers – Raakesh Agarvwal, Rajesh Pratap Singh, D&G. So take your pick. Each style can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. However, if you are planning to go for the loud, colourful or patterned bottoms – also very visible on the catwalks and heavily forecasted for the summer months – then our advice is to keep the rest of your look simple with minimal tops and not-so-loud accessories. Or, remember classic sportswear? Revive that retro glamour with a light sweater over pants – Dries Van Noten style.

CRUSHED FABULOSITY – If bringing back lace was Prada’s contribution to A/W 08, then letting fashionistas breathe comfortably in crushed and pretty but not tight dos, is her chosen look for SS 09. And, if you’re thinking that the crushed surfaces lower the chic level, just try one of those Manish Gupta shifts or Burberry dresses. Want to go glam – Prada’s uber sexy black strapless dress is a surefire winner. What’s more, this trend also gets our thumbs-up for it’s easy maintenance and strong DIY status.

CUT-OUTS – Even when life’s far from a beach, what’s summer without a little bit of skin show? Spring catwalks showed that designers think so too. Everyone – Tarun Tahiliani, Louise Goldin, Stella McCartney, Roberto Cavalli – worked their scissors to have substantial skin play on their runways. If you are planning to do the trend, keep your body shape in mind and pick clothes with well-placed cut-outs. Remember, a little peek-a-boo with skin is sexy, but if there’s flabby flesh popping out from tight-fitted outfits, that’s ugly.

‘What would you do for a Birkin bag?’

By Neelima Mishra Agrawal

That was the question put at random to women in New York, Los Angeles and Miami’s prime fashion avenues, during a survey carried out by Bluefly.com. The answers were video recorded and were bizarre to the extreme; with one effusive, wide eyed fashionista replying, “I would sacrifice my first born child!” And you thought the tendency of Indians to self-immolate, every now and than was odd. Some of the other answers bordered on ‘unprintable’.

The Birkin is really a leather handbag manufactured by the Paris based luxury brand Hermès. The story goes that back in 1984, Jean-Louis Dumas, chairman and president of Hermès, saw the actress Jane Birkin struggling with a tapestry and straw bag on a flight. As a friend and being into the bag business, he designed a larger bag made of black supple leather. And thus was born a bag, which has gone on to become the ultimate status symbol to announce that ‘you have arrived’. Considering that Jane Birkin was neither a hot shot actress, nor a style icon with a humongous fan following, the credit for the success story of the Birkin goes to the house of Hermès, for keeping the brand just a little out of reach and infusing it with impeccable detailing.

A single Birkin bag is patiently hand crafted by just one craftsman, using the finest and most exotic leather of alligators, calf, crocodiles, lizards, ostriches etc. Other features might include inner pockets, flap closures, locking twin clasps, dual top handles, palladium hardware and protective feet. A good 18 to 25 hours is the time taken to craft a single bag. Available in an assortment of colors, a Birkin’s cost begins at $7,200. Incidentally, Jane Birkin recently confessed to have hardly ever used the original bag gifted to her, on account of her ailment of tendonitis preventing her from lugging around the heavy travel bag. Touché!

Prior to the Birkin was the Kelly bag, that exuded the same aura of money. Legend has it that the bag acquired the name when in 1956, the cover of the Life magazine carried the picture of Grace Kelly trying to cover up her pregnancy with a structured crocodile Hermès bag. Of course, the House of Hermès was quick to build upon the interest generated in the bag. Playing on the well known rules of demand-and-supply, a Birkin or Kelly is never really sitting on the shelf waiting to be picked up. A customer has to walk into a store and state her choice of leather, colour, finish, choice of hardware, leave her address and contact number and a custom made bag is delivered to her eventually. This is said to take almost two years or more.

Michael Tonello, a beautician turned entrepreneur, cashed in on this scarcity of Birkins in the market and found the loop holes in the Hermès waiting list. He claims to have bought hundreds of bags and sold it with a mark up to hungry buyers not willing to wait. Not satisfied with thus booking profits, he eventually published a book ‘Bringing Home the Birkin,’ revealing the entire waiting list fraud of the Birkin and Kelly and made some more money selling the book. After all that, he has gone on record to say, "I don't like the bag. In all honesty I don't think it is very practical as it's time-consuming to get in and out of and the bag is rather heavy, even empty."

I don’t think Hermès is unduly worried by Tonello’s book of revelations. The women the world over are still willing to put their honor at stake to acquire a Birkin.

Now SMS a hug :)

Seriously! There is a Hug Shirt out there that actually simulates the squeeze of a hug to the wearer who receives a ‘Hug’ via a text message. The technology embedded in the shirt are sensors that feel the strength of the touch, the skin warmth and the heartbeat rate of the sender and actuators than recreate the sensation of touch, warmth and emotion of the hug to the shirt of the one who receives this message.

A hoodie to monitor the heartbeat

From the stables of a 22 year old fashionable geek, Diana Eng, is this Heartbeat Hoodie, which incorporates a digital camera that begins to take pictures as the heart beat of the wearer increases. A wireless heart rate monitor and a basic stamp algorithm do needful to inform the camera.

Solar powered clutch

Jo Hynek, a doctoral student has designed this solar paneled handbag which allows the user to charge her mobile phone, iPod or anything else, while on the go. Good work Jo-way to go.

The vast resource of our cultural heritage is the skill and crafts of the artisan who sits unseen and unheard in remote corners of the country ensuring that the thread remains unbroken as it carries forward the tradition of generations before him. The Indian fashion industry has a symbiotic relationship with these crafts persons and has utilized their skills to make a mark on the international runways. Be it embroideries, weaves, dyeing techniques, prints, textiles, metal work, it is these inputs which make the India designer collections stand out. This column's focus is news related to the handicrafts sector.

The 23rd Surajkund craft mela in Haryana has just wrapped up with another record breaking turn out of visitors. Launched in 1981 by Haryana Tourism, it has become a one of its kind fair where the artisan can actually showcase his craft personally. The entire diversity and range of exquisite and exotic handicraft from across the length and breadth of India are showcased here. Surajkund is located barely 8 kms from Delhi and is the historic setting of the amphitheater sun-pool built in 10AD by the sun worshipping Tomar chief Raja Suraj Pal. Set in the lush Aravali range, it now keeps its date every year from February 1 to 15, and the masses show up to revel in the ancient heritage of traditional regional crafts.

Despite the dampener by the state mourning declared in Haryana for the initial three days, the eighth day received 1.5 lakh visitors. The mela has slowly acquired an international flavor and this year’s partner country was Egypt. Besides the craftsmen and artisans, also showcased here are the folk dances of each region. The Egyptian dancers were a big hit. The Egyptian artisans showcased an amazing range of artifacts including handlooms, hand-woven carpets and rugs, carved images of statues inspired by King Tutankhamen. The Productive Families Project of Egypt was behind their participating crafts persons. At the special venue for the performing arts, Natyashala, 17 dancers and musicians belonging to the Ismalia Folk Ensemble held the spectators in thrall. A qawwali recital by the famous Chanchal Bharti and Nizami Brothers, the graceful Charkula-Holi Mayur dance from Mathura, a hit play, ‘Tukke Pe Tukka’ produced by Rang Vidushak of Bhopal, directed by NSD’s Bansi Kaul, were some amazing offerings at this one-of-a-kind Mela. The cherry on the icing was a kite flying and kite cutting competition, which pumped up the adrenaline and the excitement level to a high point. The proud victors in the former category were Shishir (first) and Chander Prakash (second) and the heroes of the latter category were Dilnawaz (first) and Sunny (second). And there was, of course, the kite making competition too. For the city slicker with the mundane life, and the jet setting tourist too, it was a soul stirring experience.

Re-engineering Fashion Weeks

The Kolkata Fashion Week being planned above adds one more to the roster of Fashion Weeks. Gracefully, the organisers of this one do not clash with any of the others unlike the Delhi Fashion Week. The good news is that there does seem to be a picture emerging. Without a doubt, the FDCI’s Wills India Fashion Week is being seen as the real pinnacle of success as a designer. In fact many of the designers - both greenhorns and the ones more established – that have been participating in other Fashion Weeks such as Lakme have been banging on FDCI’s door. The platforms peripheral to WIFW should now build their own niche and focus on say graduates, emerging designers, avante garde, regional, ethnic, etc. These platforms should give the first opportunity to those on the fashion path and WIFW the last. This should remain as the very pinnacle of Indian fashion. In fact this takes some of the burden off from the FDCI and spreads the task of catering to the growing needs of the multifarious fashion design movement in India.