The Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) has announced the dates and the venue for the Will Lifestyle India Fashion Week (Spring/Summer 2011 edition) a good one month ahead. This is a turn for the better, considering that the past few fashion week schedules were disclosed barely weeks before the event, revealing some haphazard planning. Although, for a serious trade event, as the FDCI Fashion Weeks are said to be, the event calendars should be in place a year ahead, to allow for the global buyers to make their travel plans. With the Lakmé Fashion Week having stopped presenting collections one season ahead, the confusion caused by the two events coming back to back has been resolved. The WIFW SS-2011 will be held at Hall No. 18, Pragati Maidan, New Delhi. FDCI promises exciting assemblage of exquisite lounges, plush salons, exotic on-site restaurants and novel exhibition café counters. FDCI has had some tough luck with its fashion events past few times. But we hope that is all behind us and the upcoming show will unfold successfully without hassles.
London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Sept 17-22
The recently held London Fashion Week (LFW) Spring-Summer 20 11 showed clear signs of having put the recession behind. Creativity was at a high as designers put out brave new collections, more colorful and adventurous than ever and received a great response. Vivienne Westwood's Red Label was presented to a packed house. Designer Julien McDonald hosted his show in London's historic Banqueting House where waiters served pink cocktails, decorated with rose petals. Ashish Gupta's ready-to-wear line was inspired by "the bastard child of Calamity Jane and Rooster Cogburn" and caused a frenzy with the Western style black sequin halter dresses, sequin cow print miniskirts, customised cowgirl boots, cowboy shirts and heavily fringed jackets and trousers. Burberry Prorsum's was the most glamorous show at the LFW. The virtual boutique for fashion and design yoox.com was launched at the LFW and in collaboration with British Fashion Council's eco-sustainable initiative Esthetica, presented their designers' autumn/winter 2010 collections.
New York Fashion Week S/S 2011 added plus sizes and whites ruled
The high powered New York Fashion Week (NYFW) Spring/Summer 2011 was held from September 9-16, at the Lincoln Center complex and featured designers like Nicole Miller, Buckler, Lacoste, Zac Posen, Diane von Furstenberg, Vera Wang, Badgley Mischka, Michael Kors, Tory Burch, Isaac Mizrahi, and many more. Designer Diane von Furstenberg presented her collection in the tents set up in Damrosch Park within the Lincoln Center complex. Ralph Lauren's collection presented a glamorous Wild West inspired look and the show had every buyer from across Europe, Japan and Russia, along with the local stores. Mizrahi showed on the final day of the week. Calvin Klein celebrated the minimalist simple lines and the pristine white. In fact white emerged as the new black at the NYFW SS 2011. In a first ever, the fashion week presented a plus sizes only runway show that featured models that looked more like an average American woman. Burberry, Gucci, Armani presented their kid's lines and Stella McCartney announced her launch in the category. Euromonitor International, which watches consumer trends, has predicted a 12% growth in kids wear for this year, amounting to $4.13billion. Expect to find most other designers adding children's wear to their repertoire.
The new Fashion season misses Alexander McQueen
Bang in the middle of the London Fashion Week, very appropriately too, a memorial service was held on 20th September at the St Paul's Cathedral in London to pay respect to the late Alexander McQueen. All of McQueen's family and friends from the fashion industry were there including designer Stella McCartney, models Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, Vogue magazine's editor-in-chief Anna Wintour and actor Sarah Jessica Parker. The guests all wore McQueen's creations as a mark of respect. The British designer, known for his dramatic designs, had committed suicide in February this year.
Coming up – the HDIL India Couture Week
The third edition of the HDIL India Couture Week is ready to reappear again and will happen at the Grand Hyatt in Mumbai from the 6th to 10th October, 2010. After the damp performance of last year, when the designers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla backed out at the last minute and the inaugural show had to be cancelled, there remained an element of doubt about M/s Housing Development and Infrastructure Limited continuing to associate with a fashion show. However, this year a lot of buzz has already been generated by the news that the very talented and low key Shahab Durazi has agreed to present his couture collection. Some of the other designers, who had participated in the FDCI's Pearls Delhi Couture Week such as Rohit Bal, Rina Dhaka and Karan Johar with Varun Bahl, will be showing their lines. Guess they are showing the same lines, so if you saw it in Delhi, don't bother going again. Bollywood will be represented in large numbers.
Kolkata Couture Fashion Week 2010
In a country where the real essence of what exactly couture is about is yet not clear, here comes the third couture week from the East. Idea Weavers Pvt Ltd held the 'Gitanjali Lifestyle Kolkata Couture Fashion Week 2010' 9-12 September in Swissotel, Kolkata in association with Seagram's Blenders Pride. A special choreographer, John Wolford was allegedly flown in from London. A professional team lead by Dolly Jain, who finds a mention in the Limca Book of Records for draping 100 styles of sarees, was the dressers for the Event. Wendell Rodricks teamed his white gowns with Gitanjali jewelry and Archana Kochhar was the Grand Finale designer. Diana Hayden was the show stopper. The event did not create much buzz in the national media, what with the Lakmé Fahsion Week coming up soon after in Mumbai.
High fashion at Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week SS 2011
The 52nd edition of the Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week unfolded from the 17th to 22nd September, 2010, and designers presented their colourful and fashion forward collections for the Spring/Summer 2011. While the other Spanish fashion week in Barcelona is gaining significance, the bigger and more flamboyant and commercial one is Ciebeles Fashion Week. The dates overlapped those of the London Fashion Week, but that did not affect the turnout or the enthusiasm. Spanish designer Agatha Ruiz de la Prada debuted with a colourful collection and got a lot of attention for using multi coloured plastic balls as embellishment for some of the dresses.
Mercedes Benz and Manish Arora's apparel
So is Manish Arora acquiring the new SLS Class model of the Merce? Apparently it is a business tie-up of another kind. The iconic Manish Arora is creating an exclusive collection of apparel and accessories 'Inspired by Mercedes' that will be retailed through Mercedes-Benz India's outlets across the country. Earlier this month, the company had launched a 3D simulator ride console, SLS AMG Play Station, to give a real life experience of driving its new sports car SLS AMG. Their premium sports car launched in July with a price tag of Rs 2 crore has bagged a booking of 10 units already.
Dazzled!
By Meher Castelino
The first ever jewellery expo in Asia was held in Mumbai by the Gem and Jewllery Export Promotion Council. The India International Jewellery Week, held from August 15-19 2010, was a glittering affair with gold, platinum, diamonds, emeralds, rubies and precious gems all turned into unbelievably crafted ornaments that dazzled the international buyers and media.
With 33 shows, including two Grand finales called The Best of the Best by P C Jeweller to accommodate the milling crowds at the expo, and 30 designers and brands displaying their creations at fashion shows, the event turned into a veritable treasure trove of gold, platinum and diamonds.
The Designer Touch
Designers who have made a name for themselves in the jewellery business presented collections with their characteristic touches. Queenie for Giantti showed her Mystique collection for the modern Indian woman. Farah Khan Ali’s Adaayein line was a symphony of South Sea pearls, rubies, diamonds and emeralds. Varuna D Jani presented her Bespoke and Signature lines with cascades of diamonds and strands of gems glittering under the ramp lights.
Bina Goenka’s Grecian fantasy called Tribute to Gaia was a story of coal to diamond and had stunning gems ending with a giant Tree of Life necklace. Rosily Paul the budding designer made a stunning debut with draped necklaces and strings of diamonds; while Rhea Nasta amazed the audience with her Rs one crore Cinderella shoe encrusted with diamonds. When it came to the extraordinary, it was Laksh Pahuja who made the audience sit up with his live fish necklace and giant dolphin brooch.
New Age Designs
The five National Institute of Design students created a sensation with their innovative body ornaments called The New Adorn. Using materials other than gold and diamonds, the pieces highlighted different parts of the body with mesh, twisted wires, floral motifs and even felt hats. There were necklaces that ended as belts and earrings that snaked down to the neck. Brooches and rings were amazing as well as hair ornaments.
Tradition To The Fore
When it came to the traditional heritage beauty of hand crafted jewellery then uncut diamonds, polki, vilandi, kundan and jadhav were a sight to behold. Nakshatra had the grand bridal jewellery, while Laxmi Jewellers, Mirari and Co., Golecha Jewellers, Eekani, Kundan Meena, Kashi Jewellers, Bhirdhichand Ghanshyamdas, Surana Gems, Amrapali and P C Jeweller gave the wedding collection a new dimension. Manubhai Zaveri’s rustic ornaments inspired by the traditional craft of Gujerati had the antique gold touch with precious gems for the bride who wants something that will turn into heirlooms.
Out Of The Ordinary
For something quite extraordinary on the ramp were the gold garments presented by Sangam Chains. A gold mesh kanjari, halter bikini, mesh skirts, jackets, wrap skirts, blouses and kaftan were show stoppers. CKC showed a mix of bridal and causal jewellery titled Denim and Diamonds while Dwarkadas Chandumal had an assortment of modern and ethnic jewellery. Intergem Exports’ designer Yogendra Sethi, an impressionist artist was inspired by flowers for his collection and they blossomed in coloured diamonds which are considered the most expensive in the business for necklaces, earrings, ring and bracelets.
Timond’s watches and delicate jewellery and CVM’s line were some New Age pieces with multiple strands with oversized rubies and double diamond necklaces. Ganjam Jewellers revealed the best from their famed collections like Fire and Ice, Cascada, Monsoon and the all platinum River Dance range.
Kriplani and Sons showed jewellery which was magnificent in size as rock like rubies, emeralds and diamonds dazzled in the presentation. Sawansukha Jewellers, showed an exciting line of necklaces, earring and rings in diamonds, rubies and emeralds while the Zoya by Tanishq line was inspired by Espana, Paris and Rajasthan for its Indo-west triple offering. Gitanjali launched their Debut collections with Nizam an elegant traditional line, Parineeta for brides and Menz for the stronger sex and showed their best selling Gili, D’damas, Sangini and Asmi lines which were all a mix of traditional and modern designs.
The Solitaire Awards
One of the most interesting shows was the Solitaire Awards 2010 where 16 entries from 120 were short listed as finalists and the creations were amazing as top brands vied for the award which is held annually by the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council. With India as the theme there were entries like a beautiful piece called Gandhi’s Vision, then another called Moksha inspired by Buddha and Bodh Gaya. There was a bracelet that had the gold model of the Mumbai Sea Link. Each piece was unusual and truly amazing in craft and thought.
What was fascinating about the India International Jewellery Week was the amount of creativity both traditional and contemporary that the designers and brands exhibited and the craftsmanship which was all handmade was truly a work of art in all the pieces.
US might blacklist Indian textile industry on child labor issues
The $10bil Indian textile industry that directly employs 6 million workforce to make apparel for the world's best brands is feared to find mention in the Trafficking Victims Protection Re-authorisation Act (TVPRA List), which was to be prepared by the US in September 2010. Officials from the Apparel Export Promotion Council and Union textile ministry met the US Department of Labour officials in Washington in an effort to prevent such a tag, but it is feared that they may not be too successful on that count. AEPC chairman Premal Udani said, "While the US has understood that we are serious about eliminating child labor and hence, has been engaging in dialogue with them, they have told us that they need to see things moving at the ground level." India had found itself on the list in September 2009 following which it had stepped up efforts to plug the loopholes. APEC has in the recent past drafted a common compliance code for the industry in line with the global industry and engaged US attorney Brenda Jacobs from Sidley Austin to lobby for India in the US. Also, India is banking on a report on child labor that is currently being prepared by the Northern India Textile Research Association, which will detail the nature of workforce employed in the industry with instances from export clusters around the country.
Clothing retailers like H&M promise to use organic cotton from 2020
As part of the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), clothing retailers like Hennes & Maurits, IKEA, Marks & Spencer, Levi's have enrolled in the program that will see them switching to the sustainable material by 2020. Through the BCI initiative, around 50,000 farmers in India, Pakistan, Brazil and West Africa are planting the first crop of cotton to be grown under the Better Cotton Initiative's (BCI) certification scheme. Garments will not be labeled as containing 'better cotton' or priced at a premium because fibers can easily become mixed up in the long supply chain. Instead, the BCI wants to improve the sustainability of mainstream commodity cotton and hopes the farmers will profit through improved efficiency and more reliable crops. Marks & Spencer, Ikea, Levi's and H&M are among those that will buy the scheme's output. H&M will also invest in training the farmers. The BCI is supported by funding from the Swedish and Swiss governments, the Interchurch Organisation for Development Co-operation and its 24 members, including NGOs, retailers and manufacturers. Cotton is one of the world's most widely grown crops. It occupies some 35 million hectares of farmland and uses vast amounts of fertiliser, pesticide and water. Much is produced on small farms in developing countries, but farmers often have little or no training and crop failure rates can be high. In the BCI scheme, the farmer must meet set criteria on issues such as labor standards and crop and habitat protection.Pesticides usage would require careful handling by an adult and as per manufacturer's instruction. The most hazardous are banned. Farms will also have to show year-on-year improvements in performance.
Ada Zanditon SS 2011 Pyramora Collection
At the London Fashion Week, the ethical fashion designer Ada Zanditon's 'Pyramora' S/S 2011 won accolades for the fine fusion of textile innovations with sustainable fabric sourcing and fair trade standards. The elegant apparel in this latest collection by Ada features the hybridization of themes linked to modern day eco travel in Egypt and the fragile coral reefs of the Red Sea.
Kishore Biyani now member of New York Fashion Advisory Board
The Future Group's Kishore Biyani has been invited by the New York Economic Development Corporation (NYCEDC) to join the New York Fashion Advisory Board as a member, which works directly with York City Mayor Michael R Bloomberg on issues affecting the city's fashion industry. Biyani said, "It is interesting that the board is looking for India's representation. My involvement in the board will also provide us a global perspective on fashion. Now there will be more dialogue with the global fashion leaders." Future Group is a leading player in India's fashion industry doing a business of Rs3,500cr across brands every year.
Trends overview of the Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2010
By M Mistry
The different trends that emerged from Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2010 were varied and interesting. Silhouettes changed a little, embellishments were a plenty and drapes and fabrics added to the designs of the garments.
Silhouette Story
While the lengths of the kurtas and dresses stayed in the usual limits of mini, midi and maxi the interesting addition was floor length kurtas for men and asymmetric shapes for most garments. The angarkha and kalidar looks still ruled with the long lengths that at times touched the floor. The silhouette that appeared consistently in nearly every collection was concentrated on the shoulder. A one shoulder cut for dresses, blouses, gowns and even cholis and kurtas with or without sleeves or the will power and at times even the off the shoulder lines were concentrated on the upper body. Shararas seem to have replaced the gharara and were teamed with kurtas and dresses and the lehenga/sari and the pre-stitched sari some with frilled kalis for the pleats were hot favourItes for bridal wear. What made the pre-stitched sari look interesting was the mix of the gown silhouette with the drapes of the sari with the pallav being slashed into two at times to give a scarf like effect.
Sheer leggings and churidars were a popular option with many of the designers adding glitter with Badla or sequins and the fabrics were either net or chiffon in a nude or flesh tone. The gathered full skirt with the clinched waist and broad belt made an appearance and took fashion to the retro mode of the 50s. Turkish pants, drop crotch salwars, Jodhpuri trousers, skinnies, elephant pants all came together to give a very comfortable and lose line to bottom wear. Swing tops and ponchos were worn with lehengas and shararas instead of the conventional cholis and bustiers. Fins and flaps on pants and churidars and even dresses formed a new shape while the lamp and T shape was at times seen for dresses and skirts.
Fabric Favourites
The conventional georgette, crepe, satin, brocade, jacquard, cotton, mul, khadi and ecofriendly fabrics were all there along with blends of wool and linen. Net was the reigning choice for most bridal wear and formal garments but it was so heavily embellished that at times it was difficult to see the base fabrics. Velvet appliqués were seen on net which added to the depth of the sheer material. Pretty prints inspired by countries and themes were seen. Velvet was also the main choice for shawls, lehengas, dresses, cholis and pants and replaced the dupatta in many cases. The sheer over solid story continued and tussore, matka, Mashru silks along with Mangalgiri cotton was a good entry for traditional and environmentally friendly move in Indian fabrics.
Detailing Designs
Ruffles, drapes, gathers, frills were used in tiers or came cascading down the garments along with cowls in various parts of the ensembles. It was quite apparent that feminine touches in detailing were favoured for the winter and festive season. Layering and asymmetry was a favourite choice still and does not seem to go off the charts when it is the case of sheer fabrics like mul, chiffon, net, georgette being used for garments. Last season there was a hint of shoulder pads emerging from inside the garment and onto the shoulder so this season the external heavily embroidered shoulder pads were seen on cholis, dresses, blouses and jackets and have become a firm detailing technique. Technology and fashion came together with the use of circuit boards, sliders, motors for futuristic collections but obviously they are meant for the rare one of a kind garment designer.
Embellishments
For festive wear zardozi and aari embroidery was at its peak along with chikan, mukaish, Badla work for both sexes. Chikan work appeared in great detail and practically covered the whole garment but in a tonal manner. French knots were an interesting addition, while tie-n-dye and batik was used for shawls which at times replaced dupattas. Zippers gave embellishments to bodices, necks, shoulders and back and were even used as hair ornaments. Graphic resist origami dyeing effects were unusual because of the mix of origami with the colours. Textured thread embroidery along with the 3D appliqués and motifs using silk and glass beads was striking. The 3D effect was so apparent in many of the bridal wear that the designers used it as a constant touch in the collection.
The return of Parsi Gara work for evening wear was a revival. Cross stitch got a new touch in a pixilated effect and textured thread work added to the fabrics look. It was colourfully done but in a larger more apparent size instead of the solid form. A few seasons ago embroidery turned into jewellery and this time it replaced jewellery in the form of necklaces, belts, shoulder pads, bracelets and yokes. Extensive use of Swarovski crystals sequins, zari, was a must on bridal wear with many of the creations like bustiers, bikini cholis, boleros drenched in crystals. The revival of peeta and wasli embroidery was a good change while shell, coin, mirror, feathers as embellishments was for casual and formal wear and gave a very tribal rustic look that could be inspired by not only Indian villages but even the ancient Aztec tribes. Designers also felt that delicate leaf and conifer embroidery gave a good touch to ethnic garments. Large rosettes appeared on dresses, saris, gowns and even as garlands around neck although a little over the top it looked rather dramatic for the gowns when it appeared on a one shoulder creation.
The fashion kingdom has gone global and the sundry Itali an, French, Japanese, Chinese etc fashion brands and names of different origins are foxing us as to how to pronounce them correctly. NewsVision has it all simplified for you.
Ann Demeulemeester is a Belgian fashion designer whose namesake label 'Ann Demeulemeester' is known for its gothic fashion clothing. She is a regular at the Paris Fashion Week. Demeulemeester is famously known as one of the Antwerp six (a group of designers from Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts) who, with their avant garde approach to design in the 80s practically founded the school and themselves as true arbiters of innovation. Dries van Noten was one of the six. Launched in 1985 as an experimental yet wearable line, Ann Demeulemeester has consistently attracted clients who like a little art in their wardrobe. Her signature style includes the mixing of varied fabrics and then ripping, slashing and tearing them.
Alejandro Ingelmo- allay-handro in-gel-mo
Alejandro Ingelmo is a New York based footwear designer of Cuban origin. He launched his label in 2006 with a very covetable line of stilletoes, but has since incorporated practical footwear. He is being touted as the 'new Manolo Blahnik' for being patronized by celebrities such as Madonna. He was one of the finalists for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award. He has added footwear for men too in his lines. Ingelmo's spiked shoes at the recent New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2011 were a runaway hit.
In the age of rapid mechanization and high tech advancements it is the artisan who holds the thread of a tradition of ancient skills. Cut away from the mainstream these artisan groups struggle to hold on to what they have inherited and many social groups have come forward to support them. Newsvision introduces its readers to various artisan groups and their crafts in this column.
Taj Khazana celebrates Benarasi sari with a Trunk Show
To coincide with the advent of the festive and wedding seasons, Taj Hotel's in-house lifestyle store, Taj Khazana is celebrating makeovers of 200 year old motifs of a very ancient weaving tradition of the Benarasi Sari. The show travels to Khazanas at six Indian cities, showcasing fine saris with a special emphasis on Benarasi weaves. Designer Jay Ramrakhiani, who is working with weavers on the project said, "There are motifs from Mughal times -magnificent, rare and royal. The recreated pieces on display are the exact replicas of the originals they were inspired from. Creating these saris is all about careful colour coordination, graphic designing and right weaving." The revived collection of Benarasi saris has the traditional color palette that includes rich reds, fuchsia, turquoises, greens, purples, liclac. The silver and gold motifs range from the traditional paisley to 'Shikargah' (hunting scenes) to jarmines, marigolds et al. Besides the saris with pure silver and gold zari, there is the Jhangla sari with paisley designs, jacquard weave pallu and saris with Devanagiri script detail. The Benarasi silk sari acquired its GI certificate status early this year. Such initiatives help to keep old craft traditions alive and give a boost to weavers.
GI status for the Kancheepuram Silk Sari
Protected by the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act 1999, now only 21 co-operatives and 10 weavers have the authority to make and sell and use the term 'Kanchipuram Silk saris'. All others, including the owners of textile mills in Chennai are barred from calling their silk saris Kanchipuram. The punishment is a jail term ranging from six months to three years and a fine ranging Rs50,000 to Rs3 lakhs.Though India's Geographical Indications (GI) Registry has included a total of 120 products since 2004, when 'Darjeeling tea' become the first GI-tagged product, only in the case of Kancheepuram silk saris has it proceeded to the next stage and registered legal users. The GI tag prevents the unauthorized use of natural and unique 'art wealth' of various regions. Besides ensuring that the benefit of the trade reaches the actual artisans of makers, GI protection safeguards the interests of the consumers as well.
A news item mentions that the Madrid Fashion Week held recently clashed dates with the London Fashion Week. However, all was well as the former was well attended and the multi-billion dollar industry can see many events. In India too, it seems to be 'raining' fashion weeks. However, over here the industry is at best Rs 500 cr. So, what is the logic of a Kolkata Fashion Week, Chandigarh Fashion Week, new entrant Amby Valley India Bridal Week, two couture weeks (Pearls and HDIL) from the FDCI, Van Heusen Men's, not to forget the two major bi-annual Lakmé and Wills sponsored fashion events etc? Perhaps the only one with any significant presence of buyers is the WIFW. Others manage varying degrees of media coverage at best. The plethora of shows do give platforms to many deserving designers. But in the process they dilute the impact of fashion designers and reduce standards overall. Unfortunately fashion weeks are not being driven by the fashion design industry but by brand marketing companies eager to cash in on media coverage and event management companies ready to cash in on any commercial opportunity. Time for the Council to play a bigger role than just add to the numbers!
The Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) has announced the dates and the venue for the Will Lifestyle India Fashion Week (Spring/Summer 2011 edition) a good one month ahead. This is a turn for the better, considering that the past few fashion week schedules were disclosed barely weeks before the event, revealing some haphazard planning. Although, for a serious trade event, as the FDCI Fashion Weeks are said to be, the event calendars should be in place a year ahead, to allow for the global buyers to make their travel plans. With the Lakmé Fashion Week having stopped presenting collections one season ahead, the confusion caused by the two events coming back to back has been resolved. The WIFW SS-2011 will be held at Hall No. 18, Pragati Maidan, New Delhi. FDCI promises exciting assemblage of exquisite lounges, plush salons, exotic on-site restaurants and novel exhibition café counters. FDCI has had some tough luck with its fashion events past few times. But we hope that is all behind us and the upcoming show will unfold successfully without hassles.
The third edition of the HDIL India Couture Week is ready to reappear again and will happen at the Grand Hyatt in Mumbai from the 6th to 10th October, 2010. After the damp performance of last year, when the designers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla backed out at the last minute and the inaugural show had to be cancelled, there remained an element of doubt about M/s Housing Development and Infrastructure Limited continuing to associate with a fashion show. However, this year a lot of buzz has already been generated by the news that the very talented and low key Shahab Durazi has agreed to present his couture collection. Some of the other designers, who had participated in the FDCI's Pearls Delhi Couture Week such as Rohit Bal, Rina Dhaka and Karan Johar with Varun Bahl, will be showing their lines. Guess they are showing the same lines, so if you saw it in Delhi, don't bother going again. Bollywood will be represented in large numbers.
Kolkata Couture Fashion Week 2010
The $10bil Indian textile industry that directly employs 6 million workforce to make apparel for the world's best brands is feared to find mention in the Trafficking Victims Protection Re-authorisation Act (TVPRA List), which was to be prepared by the US in September 2010. Officials from the Apparel Export Promotion Council and Union textile ministry met the US Department of Labour officials in Washington in an effort to prevent such a tag, but it is feared that they may not be too successful on that count. AEPC chairman Premal Udani said, "While the US has understood that we are serious about eliminating child labor and hence, has been engaging in dialogue with them, they have told us that they need to see things moving at the ground level." India had found itself on the list in September 2009 following which it had stepped up efforts to plug the loopholes. APEC has in the recent past drafted a common compliance code for the industry in line with the global industry and engaged US attorney Brenda Jacobs from Sidley Austin to lobby for India in the US. Also, India is banking on a report on child labor that is currently being prepared by the Northern India Textile Research Association, which will detail the nature of workforce employed in the industry with instances from export clusters around the country.
Ann Demeulemeester is a Belgian fashion designer whose namesake label 'Ann Demeulemeester' is known for its gothic fashion clothing. She is a regular at the Paris Fashion Week. Demeulemeester is famously known as one of the Antwerp six (a group of designers from Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts) who, with their avant garde approach to design in the 80s practically founded the school and themselves as true arbiters of innovation. Dries van Noten was one of the six. Launched in 1985 as an experimental yet wearable line, Ann Demeulemeester has consistently attracted clients who like a little art in their wardrobe. Her signature style includes the mixing of varied fabrics and then ripping, slashing and tearing them.
Alejandro Ingelmo is a New York based footwear designer of Cuban origin. He launched his label in 2006 with a very covetable line of stilletoes, but has since incorporated practical footwear. He is being touted as the 'new Manolo Blahnik' for being patronized by celebrities such as Madonna. He was one of the finalists for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award. He has added footwear for men too in his lines. Ingelmo's spiked shoes at the recent New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2011 were a runaway hit.
Protected by the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act 1999, now only 21 co-operatives and 10 weavers have the authority to make and sell and use the term 'Kanchipuram Silk saris'. All others, including the owners of textile mills in Chennai are barred from calling their silk saris Kanchipuram. The punishment is a jail term ranging from six months to three years and a fine ranging Rs50,000 to Rs3 lakhs.Though India's Geographical Indications (GI) Registry has included a total of 120 products since 2004, when 'Darjeeling tea' become the first GI-tagged product, only in the case of Kancheepuram silk saris has it proceeded to the next stage and registered legal users. The GI tag prevents the unauthorized use of natural and unique 'art wealth' of various regions. Besides ensuring that the benefit of the trade reaches the actual artisans of makers, GI protection safeguards the interests of the consumers as well.
It's raining fashion weeks!
