Falguni & Shane Peacock becoming a rage with international celebrities’

Indian designers Shane and Falguni Peacock could now be said to have ‘arrived’, what with sundry international celebrities opting for their creations. While their works have not made many ripples in the Indian context, their over-the-top creations have found a huge market abroad. The singer Fergie chose their edgy design for her performance at the FIFA, the pop singer Brandy chose to wear their ‘neo-age design’ outfit to this year’s American BET (Music and Entertainment) Awards, rock icon Ozzy Osbourne’s new video is featuring two of their futuristic outfits. Previously, actor Naomi Harris (Pirates of the Caribbean)wore her digital printed dress at this April’s BAFTA awards and well-known Israeli actor Golan sported her feathered creation. Falguni reportedly said, “The garment that Brandy chose was part of our London Fashion Week Line. It’s very cocktailish — a long dress that has a sporty feel with a new print on cut-out technique.” For Osbourne she said, “One of the pieces is a Chantilly lace bodysuit and the other, a peacock bodysuit — beige with feathers and lots of metal rings and sequences, — it’s a very happening look abroad and it’s sure going to stay here too.” They are now working on a futuristic and funky design for the singer Lady Gaga. The sketches have been sent and the designers are awaiting her approval.

 
Tarun Tahiliani gets it right with his Bridal Couture Exposition

Despite a few glitches and false starts, designer Tarun Tahiliani’s bridal wear show was a huge success. Juxtaposed against the first ever Pearls Infrastructure Delhi Couture Week unfolding next door at The Grand, the one well known fact became all the more clear, that in India the glamour and couture is all about weddings and events surrounding it. Best to shun the pretense and simply go the whole hog with apparel for men and women for the sundry events associated with an elaborate Indian wedding. Tarun had it all, a three-storey haveli decorated with marigold flowers, mannequins as baraatis, a mandap and wedding music in the background at the DLF Emporio for his Bridal Couture Exposition, where he presented a blend of Mughal royalty with western silhouettes. While the collection saw a range of saris, lehengas and anarkali suits embedded with Swarovski crystals for women, sherwanis were the only option for men. The colour palate was subtle with range of white, gold, burgundy, black and red. The lack of police permission to erect tents and extensions did knock out some of the extravagant plans but the concept rocked. The collection is priced between Rs 60,000 - 1,300,000, and Tahiliani promises to give consultancy to brides.
 
Blender’s Pride Fashion Tour 2010 ready to roll

The six city fashion extravaganza, Blender’s Pride Fashion Tour 2010 is all set to kick start from 7thAugust starting with the city of Chandigarh. Pune and Chandigarh have been added to the fourth edition of the fashion tour along with Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore, Kolkata and Hyderabad. The list of leading designers from the fashion fraternity who will be participating at this year’s fashion tour include Ashish Soni, Asmita Marwah, Gavin Miguel, Mandira Wirk, Nandita Mahtani, Neeta Lulla, Raghavendra Rathore, Rahul Gunjan, Shantanu Nikhil, Surily Goel, Vikram Phadnis and Wendell Rodricks. The B to C event will be a two month long fashion celebration across different cities of the country, the journey will conclude at the fashionable city of Bangalore in the last week of September.
 

India is the new flavor in global fashion trends


The fickle fashion trends flit across eras, regions, sensibilities with the turn of seasons. This time it is all that is India is the look to follow. The fashion giants like Gucci and Oscar de la Renta adorned the runways with the quintessential Indian summer look with its vibrant colours, motifs, batik prints, mirrored bags, beaded jewelry, colourful bangles, and what have you. The look was being sported by the very popular TV serial ‘Sex and the City’, which is said to set trends. Indian motifs like the elephant, paisley etc have always been around and reinvented year on. The tribal Indian look is fused with western apparel to create a very interesting and individualistic look that is so popular. Young designers like Masaba Gupta and Kallol Dutta have been able to produce great work that has retained its regional exotica for trendy fashion wear.
 

Zoya - Raghavendra Rathore’s second jewelry collection

Designer Raghavendra Rathore has taken inspiration from the rich heritage of Rajasthan, a region that he belongs to, for the latest jewelry line Zoya by Tanishq called the Gold of Narlai. The jewelry invokes ancient charm and mysticism of the tribal women of the historic Narlai village, which is located 80km from Jodhpur, surrounded by the Aravali Hills. The collection includes bracelets, earrings and pendants in beaten gold with polki, blending contemporary sensibilities with antique aesthetics. The luxury diamond branch of Tanishq has previously collaborated with Raghavendra Rathore for a limited collection. It is interesting to note that a jewelry brand has roped in an apparel designer for its jewelry design line.

 

Swiss First Calendar and designer Narendra Kumar’s creativity

Swiss airlines has collaborated with designer Narendra Kumar for their Swiss First Calendar, which was unveiled at Tote on the Turf in Mumbai. Jean-Philippe Benoit, General Manager India, SWISS said after the release, "The calendar celebrates the enthusiastic customer response to the brand new Airbus A330-300 we introduced on our Indian route last autumn." The exclusive limited edition calendar features photographs of models wearing Kumar's exotic gowns in the backdrop of heritage hotel Le Beau-Rivage Palace Lausanne, situated on Lake Leman in Switzerland, shot by photographer Prasad Naik. The "SWISS & Narendra Kumar calendar 2010-2011" has August 1st as the start date, coinciding with Switzerland’s National Day. This explains why the launch was timed in July.

 
Swarovski Elements and the FDCI’s PDICW
The Fashion Design Council of India finally got around to holding its first ever couture week, with all the elements of drama and controversies that are now so becoming a part and parcel of the shows. There were the cops who disallowed tents etc (they forgot to ask again?) resulting in MSA 2 getting nixed, thereby giving designers less time to put up their elaborate sets, followed by a court order about the ‘Pearl’ in the title that caused some confusion. Nevertheless, the event was high on glamour with the presence of their trend partner Swarovski Elements. The creativity of Sumant Jayakrishnan worked wonders for the venue that was dazzling with dramatic installations made with Swarovski Elements. There was the glittering 20 ft tall cascading chandelier that was the highlight, besides several other installations across the venue. Swarovski Elements also partnered with several designers like Gaurav Gupta, Rohit Bal, Suneet Verma, Manav Gangvani, JJ Valaya and Varun Bahl, whose works stood out. Gaurav Gupta totally stole the limelight with his stunning collection. Manish Malhotra was not a partner with Swarovski Elements for this event, but his couture collection must have used the equivalent of all the crystals present at the venue. Varun Bahl very wisely detached himself from the official venue and chose to show a magnificent collection at the Aman pool side. He grabbed all the headlines next day by simply sliding into the pool along with a few of the models. Six days, thirteen shows, drama, celebrities, show stoppers, bollywood – many missed out due to the embargo on passes and invitations, which were tightly controlled by the FDCI president Sunil Sethi.
 


Stella McCarney for Adidas - glow-in-the-dark performance wear

The London based designer/animal-rights activist Stella McCartney’a Adidas by Stella McCartney Fall/Winter 2010 collection includes a line of glow-in-the-dark performance gear. The range features a ruched shoulder jacket, a drawstring short and lace-up running shoes, all clad in feisty leopard print. The material is breathable yet weather-resistant. The line is a perfect alternative for those who hit the road in the dark.

 
 
 
 
 

The prestigious TJF Magazine, which is a new style international publication devoted to market and trend analysis and the business of luxury, having a worldwide distribution in more than 70 countries, interviewed Vinod Kaul in his capacity as Director of FDCI a few months back. We reproduce here the same interview for the readers of Newsvision.

THE INDIAN DREAM
By Estelle Arielle Bouchet

From the realms of the exotic east, a whisper of sandalwood breathes through the high-fashion collections with colour and unusual creativity. Exclusively for TJF, we spoke to the “pope” of Indian fashion, Vinod Kaul, Director of FDCI, the Fashion Design Council of India and Chairman of Newsvision. Attending the Lakmé Fashion Show, what strikes you is the ethereal strange presence of imagination, to the point that, however far you are from any invented, artificial poisonous paradise, it is impossible to say where reality ends and dreams begin. Here, everything is a hymn of praise to difference, in a dialectic where the aesthetic and the sacred come together in harmony. The beauty itself of women is eminently spiritual: from the most remote countryside of Kerala to a high-profile event like the Lakmé Fashion Show in New Delhi or Mumbai, it is always this same grace that permeates everything in delicate gestures, in saris of the colours of paradise, unreal long hair, heady enchanting scents. Everything here is an invitation to dream. Because they are all remote inaccessible princesses, it is they and those who worship them through this strange fashion style that is free of any Western connections that are being honoured in these photos, as well as the man who organizes such a prominent event in the fields of fashion and creation with so much intelligence and self-sacrifice. Interview with Mr Vinod Kaul, Director of the Indian Chamber of Fashion.

Which role does tradition still have nowadays in Indian fashion? In what way might it be a limitation for free creativity ?
Vinod Kaul:
There is a dramatic shift in the direction that Indian fashion is taking. Traditional Indian dress, such as the sari with a lot of surface work is being relegated to special occasions like a wedding. For the rest of the time, designers are looking at simpler structured clothing. More often this is a fusion of Western silhouettes combined with Indian surface work and colours. This reflects the changing Indian demographic, where over half the population is under 25 years old and so does not have the baggage of age.

What are the results of the traditional way of dressing among contemporary Indian designers?
Indian designers have been experimenting with the traditional Indian garments. Short kurtis, jodhpurs, wrap-around sari’s, and dhoti pants etc. are being worn. Khadi, a traditional way of weaving fabric, is also being used in a big way to create modern Indian garments. Many designers are experimenting with drapes. The traditional lehnga choli has inspired many designers to try out variations of it. Traditional angarkhas, choghas and jamas have been replaced by chapkans, achkans and sherwanis.

Could you please describe your role and involvement in Indian fashion? What kind of diffi culties and limits do you have to grapple with?
I am Director of the Fashion Design Council of India. The FDCI is the top body that represents and assists India’s best up-and-coming designers. In particular, we hold the twice-annual India Fashion Week. This is the largest and most important platform for Indian designers. There is intense pressure from over 200 designers to be selected to showcase their collections. We have to be firm and only permit the best of the collections to be shown.

From the opposite point of view, where are the strengths or, in other words, what are the advantages of buying Indian fashion?
For the world, Indian fashion is fresh and therefore innovative. It is especially unique in its colours, fabrics and draping. Along with India’s rapidly-growing economic ability, its influence in the arts, cinema, food and fashion is also growing.

How would you describe the general situation of Indian fashion in terms of creativity and business?
The Indian market is steadily becoming more experimental for clothing. There is openness to trying out a more unconventional way of dressing. Indian designers are doing well in the domestic as well as the international market and have been retailing out of major stores.

On the international fashion scene, which countries import Indian fashion?
Indian fashion exports have followed the Indian diaspora. Therefore, it has established a strong foothold in the US, UK and the Middle East. More recently it has started to be noticed in France and Italy.

How many Indian fashion designers do you promote? Could you describe the special qualities and spirit of some of them?
FDCI has created a strong membership base of close to 300 designers and industry professionals in the 12 years since its inception. One of the jobs of the Council is to promote the Indian Fashion Design industry through various initiatives like India Fashion Week, India Men’s Week and India Couture Week etc.

Today, Indian designers specialize in both Indian & Western collections.

What qualities does a young unknown designer need to get recognized?
A designer is always recognized by the freshness of his collection: freshness in terms of the various techniques used to bring out the best in a garment. Creativity is the main factor.

 
Contact
Estelle Arielle Bouchet
Eab Press & Image consulting
http://www.eabpress.eu
   
 
 
     
Green and gorgeous ECO FASHION

Arguing the case of eco fashion that green can be gorgeous is Sass Brown, a full-time professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York who specializes in ethical design practices in the fashion industry and has worked with women’s cooperatives in Latin America, most notably COOPA-ROCA in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. She has put it all down in her soon-to-be-published book ECO FASHION, which is to be published in September by Laurence King Publishing. Sass lives in Florence, Italy, where she is Resident Director for its overseas program. She has created collections for myriad manufacturers, from urban clothing for London’s trend conscious teenagers, to her own signature collection of women’s designer sportswear.
 

Morphotex- the eco friendly fabric sans dyes

Teijin in Japan have used nanotechnology to manufacture Morphotex, a structurally colored fiber that mimics the microscopic structure of the Morpho butterfly’s wings, which despite lacking color appear a shimmery cobalt blue. Morphotex does not require dyes or pigments and thereby, no water and energy that are used in conventional dyeing methods. Donna Saro, a Sydney based designer has used this beautiful fabric that seems to use bio-mimicry with its iridescent hues that shimmer in the light.

 
Eco Alphabet
EVENT
D for Debate on sustainability
WholeBeauty, a sustainable management consultancy agency is organizing The Atelier of Sustainable Excellence in Lausanne, Switzerland on 28th September, 2010. The aim is to provide a platform for education and collaboration on social and environmental challenges between engaged CSR/Sustainability professionals from the luxury sectors, academia and NGOs. The workshop is targeted towards CSR practitioners from luxury brands, NGO and academia to ensure an intimate learning and sharing experience. The day is planned for a highly interactive workshop covering the trends shaping the luxury industry; how the best luxury companies drive CSR within their organizations and how to move beyond compliance to develop a real competitive advantage. The list of speakers has names such as Burak Cakmak, GUCCI, CSR Director, Sandor Czellar, PhD, Marketing Professor, HEC Lausanne University, Corinne Paget-Blanc, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Communication Director etc. Those interested can log into their website www.sustainableluxury.ch
 
 
 
 
Harrods to launch its own brand of clothing and accessories

The iconic London department store Harrods is in plans to launch Harrods-branded clothing and accessories by 2012, in the hope that its name is a big enough brand in itself to spur sales and profits in the low season in the luxury industry. Brand Harrods would have their in-store shops alongside those selling expensive diamond encrusted sunglasses by Bulgari or exotic Yves Saint Laurent fragrances. On the other hand, such luxury goods brands as Burberry Group Plc or Prada SpA are seeking to reduce their dependence on third party distributors and are opening their own outlets and department stores. Self-sufficiency seems to be the new trend.
 
   
 
 
 
FDCI’s very first fashion week of its kind in Delhi, the Pearls Infrastructure Delhi Couture Week, was held at The Grand, New Delhi from July 20-25, 2010. Thirteen designers showcased their collections that were high on creativity and glamour. The presence of trend partners Swarovski Elements was visible all across. Designers Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Gaurav Gupta emerged stars of the event with their stunning collections. Rohit Bal’s creativity was well received. The influence of Russian and European luxe traditions was visible. The garments bordered on ostentatious and flamboyant. The silhouette remained soft feminine contours, the color palette ranged from broken whites to vibrant colours. Embellishments, embroideries, sparkling crystals, zardozi, were all used to showcase the classic Indian heritage. We bring for you the looks of some of the styles presented by the designers.
 
   
         
   
         
   
 
 
 
 
 
The fashion kingdom has gone global and the sundry Italian, French, Japanese, Chinese etc fashion brands and names of different origins are foxing us as to how to pronounce them correctly. NewsVision has it all simplified for you.
 
 
> Cesare Paciotti - Che-sah-ray Pah-cho-tee
> Monique Lhullieri - Mo-neek Loo-lee-ay
> Andrew Gn - an-drew jen
> Consuelo Castglioni - con-sway-low cass-till-e-an-ee
> Comme des Garcons - com day gar-s-on
> Loewe - low-ev-aye
> Bulgari - Ball-gah-ree
> Givenchy - Jhee-von-shee
> Proenza Schouler - pro-n-sa shoe-ler
> Ricardo Tisci - rick-ar-doe tish-ee
> Thierry Mugler - tea-air-ee moo-glay
> Giambattista Valli -gee-yam-bat-easter var-lee
> Gianfranco Ferré - gee-anne-franko fair-er
> Miuccia Prada- moo-chi-a pra-da
> Hervé Leger - her-vay le-j-air
> Balmain - bal-ma (as in magic not market)
> Giuseppe Zanotti - ji-sep-ee za-not-ee
> John Paul Gaultier - john-paul go-tea-air
> Hermès - er-mez
> Balenciaga - bal-en-see-aga
> Hussein Chalayan - who-sain sha-lie-on
> Christian Lacroix - chris-tee-an la-kwa
 
   
Badgley Mischka – Badge-lee Meesh-ka

Designers Mark Badgley and James Mischka jointly launched the American fashion label in 1993. The Badgley Mischka's looks are described as "red-carpet-destined evening wear" but generally produced with lighter fabrics and less construction. They are also known for fragrance, handbags, shoes and eyewear. The Badgley Mischka line is available at Bloomingdales, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman and two boutiques in West Hollywood and Boston. There is a small section of Badgley Mischka in House of Fraser in Westfield Shopping Centre, London. With a huge celebrity clientele, the spokespersons of the label have been famous stars such as Sharon Stone, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen and Teri Hatcher.
 

Abaeté
- ah-bye-ah-tay

Laura Poretzky, a French Brazilian designer raised in Paris, Rio de Janeiro, and New York debuted her collection Abaeté in 2004 with a small resort collection. Understated and feminine apparel was the USP of the label. Poretzky attended the Rhode Island School of Design, and upon graduation she worked for Ralph Lauren. Her collaboration with Payless ShoeSource on the Abaete for Payless line was a huge success and had a cult following. Celebrities such as Kirsten Dunst, Jessica Simpson, Christina Aguilera, Rihanna, Kate Moss, and Jessica were on her client list. However the production for the label Abaeté has ceased since October 2009. The talented Poretzky will surely be back with something new, we just have to wait and watch.
   
 
 
 
     
In the age of rapid mechanization and high tech advancements it is the artisan who holds the thread of a tradition of ancient skills. Cut away from the mainstream these artisan groups struggle to hold on to what they have inherited and many social groups have come forward to support them. Newsvision introduces its readers to various artisan groups and their crafts in this column.
Bangladesh garment industry reacts to new minimum wage proposal

The proposal by the National Wage Board to increase of the minimum wage of the workers in Bangladesh garment industry to 3000 Bangladeshi 'taka' (€33) has riled the Garment-workers unions and labour-rights organizations, such as Clean Clothes Campaign, who have reacted with indignation and disappointment at the newly-proposed increase, which is not sufficient to even support the basic needs and does not take into account the huge increase in living cost. The current minimum wage in the industry, at 1662 taka (€18) per month, had not been reviewed since 2006 despite inflation of basic living costs running at up to 200%. Amin Amirul Haque of the National Garment Workers Federation (NGWF). “Most of these workers are the sole source of income for their families, and €1.10 a day is far below what a family of three, four or five need to survive.” According to calculations of the Asia Floor Wage campaign, a realistic living wage for a family in Bangladesh is just over 10.000 taka. In Bangladesh, around 2.5 million people – mostly women - are employed in the garment industry, which is the country's largest export sector and main foreign-cash earner. Despite the discontentment, along with the underlying concern about the implementation of the new minimum wage act, the Unions have indicated a readiness to accept a lower figure in order to reach an agreement. According to local unions and labour-rights organisations the levels of non compliance are much higher. The Clean Clothes Campaign, a global network that strives to empower factory workers in the garment industry worldwide, wants the government to set the minimum wage substantially higher. “Factory workers in Bangladesh are entitled to a realistic living wage,” said Tessel Pauli of the Clean Clothes Campaign. “In addition, we urge the government to review the minimum wage on a yearly basis to incorporate rises in living costs.” There remains another week before the verdict will be out.

 
   
 
 
 

 

   

Post Couture Week Blues

Indian designers have come back strongly on the couture platform as the above newsletter would indicate. Not only did FDCI come out with a Delhi Couture Week, Tarun Tahilianini ran a smaller but equally grand mini-event in parallel. This is with the original Mumbai Couture Week sponsored by HDIL still intact. Add to this the mushrooming exhibitions, and what have you! In India Couture only spells one thing – wedding! The big Indian wedding is strong and Indian designers are lapping every moment of it. What is not up front is that the same designers have been unable to make a stronger showing with other segments including prêt. If anything, the erstwhile established designers have moved out of this in the face of overwhelming completion from foreign premium brands. Young up-coming Indian talent have also stolen the wind from the establishment. While Indian Fashion Weeks has no dearth of sponsors willing to splurge money for the association, the buyers are less motivated. The numbers of buyers at the biggest event, WIFW, has not grown beyond 200 over ten years! There is a serious issue to be addressed. FDCI’s approach to hold yet additional events and shows is not going to resolve this! The alarm bells should be ringing!

 
 
 
Editor In Chief : Vinod Kaul    -    Editor : Neelima Mishra Agrawal
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“Clothes and jewellery should be startling, individual. When you see a woman in my clothes, you want to know more about them. To me, that is what distinguishes good designers from bad designers.”
- Alexander McQueen, (17th March, 1969 – 11th February, 2010) English designer known for his shocking and unconventional designs
 
 
     
   
     
   
     
   
     
   
     
 

Feb 2010
 
     
   
     
   
     
   
     
   
     
   
     
   
     
   
     
 
Global Events
 
 
 
 
Jan 23-26, 2010
Paris
 
25th - 28th January 2010
Paris
 
Jan 28-31, 2010
Bangalore
 
Feb 11-14,2010
Goregaon, Mumbai
 
Mar 05 - 09, 2010
Grand Hyatt Hotel, Mumbai
 
March 20- 24, 2010
New Delhi
 
 
03rd - 07th May 2010
Australia
 
16th - 20th June 2010
Basel, Switzerland
 
24th - 27th Jun 2010
Paris
 
5th - 8th July 2010
Paris
 
23rd Sep - 03rd Oct 2010
Wellington, New Zealand
 
 
     
 
News Archive
 
     
 

WIFW introduces morning shows for new talent

WIFW model audition for A/W 2010 – look out for fresh faces

Same designers on two different Fashion Weeks

Why is Sanjana Jon in Tihar Jail?

Abraham and Thakore’s first ever Fashion Week with WIFW

Sanjana Jon lining up celebrities for CIFW

Bangalore Fashion Week A/W 2010 on a roll

Suneet Verma’s ‘Night Fever’ for Lakmé Fashion Week Grand Finale

Designer Archana Kochhar’s collection at SOURCE India 2010 Fashion Show

Did you know that YSL is the highest grosser even after death?

Calvin Klein presents his SS-2010 line in Singapore Jail

Alexader McQueen found dead in London home

Naomi Campbell’s Haiti benefit fashion show to kick off LFW

Miles of runways across sundry global fashion weeks – Part II

Teen Blogger Tavi – fashion’s new wunderkind reporter

Brazil’s Rio Carnival- music and dance and revelry

Tanishq to improve the lot of jewelry artisans

 

Miles of runways acorss sundry global fashion weeks – Part I

Sanjana Jon seeks Indian Govt help to extradite Anand Jon

FDCI back in business with three fashion weeks

High decibel FDPC and FDCI drama ends with Vijay Singh arrest and single fashion week

Samant holds his own Ethical Fashion Show

First faltering steps of the Bangalore Fashion Week

The Swiss 'Schweizeroffiziersmesser'- incorporating new trends

Esquire’s Singular Suit exhibition on at Somerset House

SHOWstudio: Fashion Revolution in London

London Fashion Week relocates for September S/S 2010

Amsterdam International Fashion Week - July 18th – 26th

Dogs on the catwalk at 'Paws for Style'

Christian Lacroix - fall season sale

The heritage of spinning and weaving in Ethiopia

CM Omar gives a boost to Kashmiri handicrafts

The business of creativity