Zubair Kirmani presented today a range of western Women’s and Men’s wear ensembles. In dark wintry tones of deep olive, browns, greys, steel, burnt orange and coppers, the collection had a very sincere and somber feel. It seemed to carry some inspirations from dark night.

Crepe silks, georgettes, shot silks, denim and satin were the main fabrics with play of several surface textures. Crushing, pin tucks, lots of stitched stripe details, constructed details in rouching and tucks were used. Particularly noticeable was a surface texture in patched circles allover pattern.

Dresses have been a major show item since last year and Kirmani’s collection was no different. The range largely showcased short and long dresses in varied styling. Straight styles, A-lines, frock dress with Magyar sleeves, empire line dress in constructed and stitched stripes, printed silk flock dress, a false jacket dress, shirt dresses, jacket dresses, dresses in double fabrics, copper quilted jacket dress, long knit satin dress, pin tucked dress and peasant top with a school girl skirt. The collection splashed a very girly look on the ramp. Accompanying these were school girl stiletto shoes.

Men sported very sensual and somber sweaters with bold geometric patterns and smoky black and brown straight pants. Black velvet jacket went over a khaki sweater with patent pointed shoes. Also seen was a long jacket in crushed satin.
Over all a very girly look in somber range of colors with exciting play of surfaces.

The global meltdown has inspired designers around the world and in India too. So it was little wonder that the Prince among designers – Raghavendra Rathore for his designer brand Rathore Jodhpur, was intrigued by the winds of our times which are blowing ‘left’ according to the designer and like the left hand and its dark perceptible myth there is a mysterious touch all around.

So the collection which was dark and moody in gabardine, wool, velvet and rich silks for men’s and women’s wear in sombre colours that were black, grey, brown, earth, deep blue, green, white and flame red revealed the typical Rathore touch in the line except for the two red kaftans with gold embroidery which should have been eliminated from the collection as they definitely did not reflect Raghavendra’s signature sensibilities.

Keeping the “left” angle in mind there was a prominent pleat on the left sleeve on the upper arm of most outfits for both sexes. Another striking addition was an apron glittering or matte tied to the side as an accessory for most outfits. Was Raghavendra hoping it would be used in the kitchen too? Men’s wear was sleek and practical with black kurtas teamed with slim pants, shirts with extended cuffs and white tuxedo shirts with wide cuffs. Some discreet smocking on the sleeve biceps added a touch of style to men’s wear.

Women’s wear had batwing silhouettes, quilted skirts, smart satin shirts with two pleat high waist pants, long sleeve, four pocket silk coat dress, velvet embroidered waist coat or gilets, wing shoulder bellow sleeved coats, a few lurex drop waist tulip tunics, mini double breast trench coats, a draped green crepe mini with a daring bare back and some long black austere gowns.

“Fragments” was the title of Nikiee Mahhajan’s collection for Autumn/Winter 2009 and it stuck to the theme as soft chiffon and silk along with lace, net and velvet gave a luxurious look to the creations. There were deep jeweled tones with metallic touches that brought to life the delicate wooden block prints through the shaded effect.

The look was western very young and trendy as different shades and patterns along with a mix of fabrics came together to create a single outfit. Starting with a black silk bubble dress with gold brocade sides, Nikiee brought in a line of minis, midis and long lean maxis or slightly gathered and pleated creations with contrast bodices for a fresh look. Side knife pleats played a major role as they appeared on dresses which had contrast front and back print interest.

Velvet was used to highlight bodices, hemlines or sleeves. Multi fabric panels were edged with minute piping, while lace added a feminine touch to the sleeves, neck and hemline. The look was soft and flowing, with “U” shaped hemlines, “A” line silhouettes, smock dresses, baby doll minis, tiny black lapelled shrugs, multi paneled bubbles, sack dresses, flouncy frocks over pencil skirts and double sleeves in sheer chiffon, which all completed the look.

Where Nikiee scored was with her innovative block prints, the clever mix and match of colours and the different fabric textures all put together for a very practical collection that was high on commercial viability.

Namrata Joshipura never fails to impress with her very strong sense of fashion aesthetics, which she presents in a simple but very creative manner. There is something always exciting to look forward to in her line of clothing.

This time there was an emphasis on the shoulders giving them a sharp silhouette along with chandelier sleeves which added to the geometric look of the garments. Leather scalloping and jigsaw puzzle motifs, sequins, patterns that were created to resemble scales added to the drama of the collection. The color story was strong and vibrant with black, red and ivory along with teal, magenta, grey, chocolate and navy for fabrics that ranged from satin, and tweed.

There were some constants in detailing like the one lapel for jackets, and dresses, narrow cigarette pants, extended collars streaky effects for T-shirts and dresses some great ostrich and snake skin texturing and the bubble and tulip silhouette for skirts.

The striking ensembles were the grey leather scallop skirt with a magenta satin top, a sleek brown pinstripe double breast suit, a grey leather appliqué jacket with citric green inner, a tweed large flower tulip hem jacket, a bumble bee print cape with satin pants, a fan motif black beaded long puff sleeve dress, a seductive black beaded dress with a low “U” back and red sun kissed shimmering short and long dresses.
The ankle boots in vibrant colours and the tiny chain bags were perfect accessories for the collection.

There was a lot of controlled creativity in Namrata’s collection which proved that when the vision is focused the result is a great fashion story.

When the theme of a collection is a wild fantasy jungle world where cross breeding among animals could result in leopard butterflies, white peacocks and four legged birds the garments have to match these visions.

And who better than Manish Arora, the Wild Child of Indian fashion, to present this outrageous line for Autumn/Winter 2009-10. When it comes to keeping the audience on the edge of their seats with his creativity, Manish is a master showman as well as costume designer who would undoubtedly win every award in the world for ultra fashion as well as a perfect TEN for creativity but unfortunately when it comes to selling this collection off the rack, he may not go above a zero for commercial viability.

Although the silhouettes could be described as knee length jackets, form fitted dresses, boxy back tops, belted high waist trousers, waist coats as well as pencil skirts with striking V shaped side pockets, side fins and dramatic lines of heavy pleats the almost Hobble like hemlines and highly stylized prints and embroidery inspired by butterfly wings, animal skins and wild flowers would need a woman who enjoys making a spectacle of herself or is out to win every prize in a fancy dress contest.

In spite of the total unwearability of the garments, the beautiful silk, satin, velvet, felt and leather in the wildest colors of the jungle, crafted into show stopping ensembles were a visual treat for the eyes.

Particularly fabulous were the 3D lions, elephants, eagles and gorillas in CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements that were perched on the different parts of the model’s bodies and the lovely shoes.